Placement of toliet flange for water test

Okay; I while back I posted a question regarding a 10ft water test that my inspector wants to see...I have since gone out and bought a test tee with a an inflatable test tee balloon. Here in Oregon they sell a toilet flange that has a knock-out top so you can complete this water test without having to plug this hole. The problem is that once I glue this in for the test I then have to patch the surrounding sub-floor as well as install the ¼†hardy backer and ¼†of tile. Normally I would set the height of the drain and then complete the sub-floor, tile and then put on the flange. With the water test I don't have this option. Does anyone have another idea? Just thought I would ask before I took the next step and glued everything.

Thanks for the reply

They make mechanical plugs and the knockout test cookies.
Either way you will be able to glue a flange on later.

10 feet of water head on a waste and vent system is required.
That or pump it up with five pounds of air.

Terry; Thanks for the reply...I actully bought that exact same item...however, I am more interested in the "test cookie" that you mentioned. I have test caps...little white discs that pop into the end of the pipe. Is this what you where refering to? I was told that these should be glued in and then cut off after the test. Is there another type...if you had a picture or know of a place to get them that would be great. Thanks again

For the toilet, can't youjust leave the pipe like 5" or so above the subfloor, cap it for the test, then cut it to the proper height when you have the finished floor down and install the flange?

Yea I thought of the that, however, with my 100 year old house the floor is not tall enough to use a regular closet flange, I have to use a street closet flange, alowing me to fit the pipe with-in the floor joists. Thus if I did go that route I would have to cut it before the elbow, rather then than after it....hopefully I explained that well enough...any other thoughts? Thanks!!!!

Test cookie is the same as the white test caps that glue inside.

If your trap arm is very close to the floor, you can use a 4x3 street closet bend.
This will stick up above the floor, and then afterwards you can glue a 4" flange onto it.

It can be sawed afterwards or before.

why not a mechanical plug? you can get 3" or 4" at the box stores.

sulconst2...why not a mechanical plug?!?! hmmm...will that hold for a 10ft water test? Any thoughts on that? Maybe I'll pick one up today and check it out...thanks for the suggestion. Terry...if that doesn't work I may go with your suggestion. Thanks!

here is a link

http://www.cherneind.com/http://www.cherneind.com/products.asp

they have gripper plug for pipe or hub fit plug for fitting

gripper rated for 40' head
hub fit rated for 30' head