Drain Flanges - PP or Chaulk and misc tool questions of the week

Just pondering as I plan to gut one of my bathrooms....

Do you use PP or caulk for drain flanges. There is the inevitable debate on these...

No Hub Wrenches. Do you guys just wrench to tight or use a specific 60/80lb torque wrench ...which I'm inclined to buy.

In the Pasco tool lineup, just out of curiousity....are there any tools that are far superior to the Ridgid equivalent.

BTW, who makes the BEST PVC/ASB pipe. At this point, the largest I will probably be cutting is 2".
I've always used a ABS saw on a miter box up to this point.
Last but not least, currently have a TurboTorch STK9. Think I'm going to cough up the big bucks for the one that has the hose and the smaller head on it...

I am drawing a blank about "PP". And why would you "caulk" the flange? I use the specific No-Hub wrench. There are two major versions, and the biggest difference is how you use them to loosen the clamp bolts. I use a self lighting TurboTorch. The ones with hoses are not worth the price, in my opinion. I cut my pipe with the SawZall.

Plumbers Putty or Caulk.

I've always used a little bead of plumber putty underneath the drain flange just to seal things up. In various houses I have visited, it looks like they drop a bead of caulk underneath .

Self Lighting Turobotorch is what I have already.
I was looking to do the hose setup with the much smaller self lighting head mainly because...when in tight spots, the smaller head with the tank/can out of the way ....seems like easier access when torching. It's expensive though, cheapest I found so far was $170ish. Bernzomatic makes one that is considerbly less expensive, but I've had good experiances with my Turbotorch and plan to stick with them.

No-Hub torque wrenches I like the Pasco over the Rigid, I do my initial tightening with a battery powered drill and finish them off with the wrench when everything is straight. Don't forget that you have to once in a while check your torque wrench to make sure it's still in the range of the bands.

I use a battery powered sawzall to cut the pipe. TurboTourch is another winner.

Unless you get yourself in a jackpot you should not have to caulk a flange, run it up with a band and make sure you fasten it to the floor.

>>>I've always used a little bead of plumber putty underneath the drain flange just to seal things up<<<

If you are talking about the closet flange the only thing putty will do is dry out.

I think he's talking about the sink and tub drains, and yes plumbers putty is what you should use. The only time I will use silicone is to seal an acrylic shower drain to allow it to flex.

Yeap, just sink and drain flanges...

It must be getting the right blade with the sawzall....
I recall trying on 4" pipe and it was walking everywhere.
My friend who owns a bodyshop luckily lived close by and I borrowed his bandsaw.
Now that is one sweet tool and I have my fair share of boutique tools.....never added a bandsaw to my stash as it would see extremely limited use.

In that case PP on flanges, except for composite an marble where the oil could stain, unless you use "stainless putty". IF you are talking about a portable band saw, they do have limited applications, at least until you really need one. Use a long 7 tpi wood cutting SawZall blade.

Here's a little no hub trick. If your battery drill has a slip clutch on it, you can get the torque set real close to what it should be. And...Milwaukee makes a battery one specifically for no hub.

I usa clear "3 hour shower" silicone on kitchen and bath drain flanges. The small squeeze tubes are more costly, but quick. Any drawbacks to this? I also use a giant ratcheting cutter for drains up to 2". It was about $170 but is fast and burr free.

Yes, being the one that has to remove it if it leaks.