Shower liner tub spout hole cut too big

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cooleydooley

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Need advise! We measured a zillion times but the wall fits in a bit different - so we had to re-cut the hole for the tub spout as it ended up being right on the curve - it did not fit do we had to make it bigger. Now we have a gap to fix. Here is a picture - any one ever hear of another knucklehead doing this? I was thinking maybe some type of white or chrome collar that would fit under??? Any recommendations appreciated.
Thanks

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7875/tubspout.jpg
 

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hj

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Your problem is that the tub spout is right where the cove is located, and there was NEVER anyway you were going to be able to seal the spout, even if you had cut a perfect hole. At this stage it is an almost impossible situation because anything you use to cover the hole has to bend to fit the wall, and the spout will STILL not fit tight to the wall. If you were to fabricate something about an inch thick that was cut to mate to the cove and wall, with the pipe sticking through it, then the spout would tighten to it.
 

Jadnashua

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Hindsight is always annoying...

It would have been a good idea to replace the old valve and spout when you replaced the walls. Then, you could have moved things so they would have fit better. You are going to be close to the minimum spout to flood rim code requirement with it placed where it is now.

MA has some very strict rules about plumbing, so be careful so-as to not run afoul with the authorities.
 

cooleydooley

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Well yea we see that now. It has been a 2 week project - one bathroom home - outdoor shower getting old....
Anyway we have to do something. What would I have the piece you mentioned fabricated out of - and where? The guy at the hardware store suggested possibly putting a piece of plastic behind the hole and using plumbers goop to attach it - but we wouold seem to still have the cove issue - nice to know what it is called - have been calling it a bump. We shouod have had the spout moved higher - or switched to a one faucet system....but too late now and for now have to do something. I am going to contact the mfg to see if we can get a new side panel.
 

Jadnashua

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If you do get a new panel, replace the valve and spout...

If you were handy, you could fabricate something out of white plexiglass. Depending on what the walls are made of, you may be able to solvent weld the plexiglass plate to the existing panel (if it is acrylic) to make a permanent, waterproof seal. If it is a gelcoat fiberglass, you might be able to fabricate it out of that material, then pay someone to refinish it. That would probably cost more than replacing the panel and moving the spout.

We've all had an occasional whooops...now figuring out an acceptable fix is the creative, hard part.
 

cooleydooley

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Guess I am not too handy by the look of things:) No sure if we can get the new panel, waiting to hear back and it will take a while. When you say replace the valve to you mean go to one of the one handle one - only have to cut one hole plus the tub spout (which wold be moved to be higher).

The surround is abs plastic 3/16th inch thick. It was $250. for the 3 pieces. Everything else - moving tub spout, tub is in, adding 2x4's etc is ready to go.
 

Terry

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The outlet of the tub spout needs to be 1" above the flood level of the tub.

I normally center the tub spout at least 4-1/4" from the top of the tub, but in your case would have put it higher.
I always remove two handle faucets while the tile is out. Soon parts will be unavailable for that faucet. Then what?
This is always a chance to bring the faucet up to code with a new pressure balanced faucet, preferably something you can get parts for.
Delta, Moen, Grohe, Price Phister, Kohler.

You can order a new panel, and recut, after the valve has been replaced and raised higher.
Or you can fudge something in there behind the spout and caulk it in.
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cooleydooley

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Thanks everyone! I just ordered a replacement side panel and plan to contact a plumber to move the tub spout up and to install a new one handle faucet.
 
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