View Full Version : PEX faucet feed line removal question from the new guy

06-30-2010, 07:12 AM
Hey guys, first post here but I feel it's in good hands, from reading around seems like you guys really know your stuff! I'm an avid DIY guy but my expertise is in automotive, not plumbing. I have a new house (2 years old) that was plumbed with PEX and one of the master lav faucets produces water that smells terrible, like sewer gas. This happened in the other bathroom and the plumber came out and changed the faucet dees lines and the trouble went away. Now it's happening in this bathroom and I cannot see how to remove the feed lines, nor do I know where to buy replacements. I don't see too much PEX stuff at the Home Depot. The fitting at the watt shutoff is round and smooth, not like anything you would put a wrench on, does that unscrew or is it some sort of pressure fitting?

How do I remove this thing and where do I get its replacement?

Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the help!

06-30-2010, 09:09 AM
A picture might help. THere is one shutoff that has an integral supply line. They are mostly junk. Not sure exactly what you have, so a picture would help.

06-30-2010, 09:16 AM
I'll take a pic at lunch and post it up.

06-30-2010, 10:45 AM
Here are the pics, sorry they aren't great.



06-30-2010, 11:29 AM
From what I've heard, the hose is crimped onto the valve during manufcturering...the only way to resolve that is to replace the valve. Most faucets come with supply lines attached. Before you start cutting things off or replacing, verify that you can use a standard hose to your faucet, or you'll be replacing that as well. Those valves/hose assemblies aren't known for great reliability.

06-30-2010, 11:37 AM
Replacing it isn't an issue, I'll replace every part there if need be, they aren't that expensive. Does the valce just enscrew from the fitting in the wall? Sorry for all the questions, I just need to know how to get it off so I can replace with something that doesn't smell!

06-30-2010, 11:44 AM
The valve "pushes" onto the pipe. IF you have copper coming out of the wall, you can use pliers to twist it back and forth while pulling on it. IF you have PEX coming out of the wall, doing that will damage the tubing, so you would have to "disassemble" the valve with a hacksaw and some other tools to release it.

06-30-2010, 11:49 AM
OK, I'll check to see what's back there, but I'll assume it's the PEX. The plumbers on this job were the worst part of the entire build so I'm expecting the worst. They did other things like not connect (or even drill the hole for or run) the drain for the dishwasher and the first night we were there we got sewage backing into the bathtub when we flushed the toilet. Both great indicators of the workmanship involved there.....

Thanks for the info guys, hopefully I can manage it from here. Any ideas where I can buy replacement parts to work with the PEX without having specialized tools? I will be replacing this set-up on Saturday.

06-30-2010, 12:00 PM
Good old Accor stops...

Junk the day they were made at the factory and destined for the hands of an installer that likes to install cheap junk to cut corners...

06-30-2010, 12:03 PM
That seems to be the general concensus here, what do I need to get or build to replace these? I have them in 5 sinks and 2 toilets.

06-30-2010, 06:31 PM
Sorry for your crappy valves, just looking at those pics makes me sick. What a crappy way to cut corners.

Depending on how you remove those and how much pipe you have left coming out of the wall to bite onto I would look to throw this type of stop or similar below your sinks.


They simply push onto the pex stubs, then you can buy whatever kind of hoses you want to go up to your faucets.

07-01-2010, 05:59 AM
Perfect, I'll look around for plumbing supply locally before I order online, but thanks for the link so I have a picture.

07-01-2010, 07:11 AM
There are others http://www.brasscraft.com/Products.aspx?Id=202 the Big Orange place stocks these by me

07-01-2010, 07:15 AM
Great! You remove a crappy push on valve, and then replace it with another one. Remove the old valves and then replace them with "compression" connection valves which you can easily replace when they need it in the future.

07-01-2010, 07:19 AM
OK, so what type of compression valve will work with the PEX? If this is a stupid question forgive me but I really don't know. the last time I replaced a alve I had to sweat it onto copper.

07-01-2010, 12:53 PM
According to the manufacturers, you can use ANY compression valve with PEX, just use the supporting insert sleeve inside it.

07-01-2010, 07:33 PM
Any standard compression shutoff will work with pex. The magic is that you need to find (and some are packaged with) the SS ferrule that inserts into the pipe. This supports it so the compression ring will seal against the pipe. The OD of pex is the same as copper pipe. That's why a standard valve will fit the OD. Those Brasscraft package for pex have them in the package, but they are available as a separate item.

07-01-2010, 07:48 PM
Great! You remove a crappy push on valve, and then replace it with another one. Remove the old valves and then replace them with "compression" connection valves which you can easily replace when they need it in the future.

Most push connect stops are removable, some require a special tool and others like the brasscraft do not. I don't know I would call a valve that is qtr turn ball valve (non-plastic) crappy. I know you gripe is with the push connect method, but those valves are a huge improvement from what he's got. They are very user friendly for install and forgiving.

I've not used compression on pex yet, since I have the crimp tool, but I know on copper you can screw up the install by under/over tightening. I would imagine the same applies when using one on pex. You remove all of that from the project with a pushconnect. Probably not a fan of the sharkbites either huh! To each his own.

07-02-2010, 06:30 AM
All good information Gentlemen, thank you very much. I'll do it this weekend and report back.

07-02-2010, 07:23 AM
I WILL use Sharkbite and J Guest pushon fittings WHEN the situation calls for it, but they have provision for easy removal. NOT all push on stops have that feature. AND when the quarter turn handle gets "sticky" like they all do, turning it may just rotate the angle stop.

08-24-2010, 12:12 PM
If your going to compare ProBite to a plastic push connect that is not quite fair that would be like comparing apples with oranges! All you have to do is have the two type of products in your hands and you can clearly see the difference. As for using compression over push connect your reasoning doesn't really cut it since a product like Probite is also removable, repositionable and even repairable. You can either get a straight or angle valve that is connected to a stainless steel hose. I found the hoses here http://www.probite.com/fittings/push-connect-supply-lines/ all you would need for lets say for your 1/2" piping that is coming out of the wall to be at least 1" to push the fitting onto for 3/4" pipe the directions say 1 1/16". Since I have used Probite for my own bathroom DIY project, I can tell you it is simple to use! In reality, you ream and de-burr the pipe, mark the pipe to insertion depth and then push the fitting on until it meet the mark you made! If I can plumb a bathroom with this product anyone can!

08-25-2010, 02:25 AM
A review of all donnagvia's posts seems to show a pattern of shilling for Probite...