View Full Version : Elbow for ice maker line?

06-28-2010, 03:15 PM
My refrigerator ice maker is connected to a faucet recessed in the wall with a flexible line. 1/4" compression fittings all around. The line comes from the faucet, perpendicular to the wall. I'd like to push the frig further back against the wall, but the line is fairly stiff, and I don't want to put a strain on the fitting at the faucet. I've been looking for a 90-degree connector so I can push the frig against the wall but don't know exactly what I need.

My best guess is a brass elbow with 1/4" compression fittings--one end male; the other, female. I'd discard any sleeve and nut, since I'm screwing the flexible line onto the male end of the elbow. Does this sound right? What about the material? Is brass okay for an ice maker supply line? Forged or extruded?

I found what I think is such a beast at the Anderson Fittings web site (http://andersonfittings.thomasnet.com/item/compression-fittings-2/70a-elbow-90-tube-to-fpt-fittings/70a-4b). Something that has me concerned is the "FPT" designation. I found out that it stands for "Female Pipe Thread." Is this the same threading as my water-supply faucet with its 1/4" compression fitting? If the answer to these questions is a resounding, no, how else can I accomplish my goal of pushing the frig against the wall?

Paul Long

06-28-2010, 03:37 PM

The fitting at the wall has straight cut compression threads.
They are not tapered pipe threads.

A different animal. If you try this, you will ruin the shutoff.
Stick with a sort section of tube out of the stop, and compression 90 to that.
Or get in the wall and find a way to turn the shutoff.

Ice maker lines are best in copper 1/4" OD tubing or stainless braided tubing.

I Play One On TV
12-17-2010, 12:40 PM
Arrow Industries makes just what you need, part # 05-57L-4-4

My local plumbing carries the same thing made by somebody else--I don't know who, but could find out if you need the info.


12-17-2010, 02:49 PM
I have had almost ZERO luck using "compression" fittings whether it was a cap or an elbow. Use a tubing bender to make a 90 in the copper and cut it off so it just fits into the valve. In most cases there is enough "stuff" on the rear of the reefer to keep i from going all the way back anyway.