View Full Version : replacing silcock valve

09-23-2005, 07:26 AM
I found that one of the frostproof valves has a hole inside of my house. I can see it at my crawl basement. When I open the valve most of water drops to the basement. I found it after tons of watering to my garden. It's too bad.
I think the valve has been soldered. I wonder if I can replace it by myself. How can I remove it first? Is soldering easy enough? Is the silcock valve ready to be soldered or should I buy additives?

09-23-2005, 07:48 AM
Next time don't leave the hose hooked up during freezing weather.
I'll bet that is why it froze and broke.
To fix or repair: Remove the anchor screws on the outside wall
Find that pipe inside your basement or crawl space.
Pick a spot on that pipe that you can reach easily and cut the copper there.
Don't forget to turn the water off.
Go outside and wiggle and pull that faucet to the outside till you can work on it.
That part that split is not on the pressure side of the valve, it's the area that lets the faucet drain to keep it from freezing.
If you don't have a new sillcock to use, if you buy a new one, measure the old one because they come in different lengths.
Sometimes you can squeeze that split back togather and lay a nice piece of solder on the split.
I'm not reccomending that but in a pinch you could go that route and it should not become a problem.

09-23-2005, 10:07 AM
Thanks for the reply. I just moved in this hous a month ago. I did not know that it was broken inside. I'll not leave a hose on it anyway.

The question is that how I can seal the valve and the pipe?
soldering? Isn't it just for tightning?
The sillcock valve I saw usually had tread at the end. If I cut a pipe it will be just plain. How do I seal it without leaving any leaking point?
and where should I cut? The point where the hole is?
Those may look stupid question but I'm a new for these house maintenance.

09-23-2005, 10:17 AM
If you have not soldered before, now is not the place to learn.
If you cut the copper you will have to solder it together with a copper coupling. If there is no shut off devoted to that sillcock, when you do your repair, it would be a good idea to put one there.