View Full Version : plumbing hand tool.. for manually striking tool with hammer and driving a cement nai
06-16-2010, 08:18 AM
Hi, I use to do alot of plumbing work but was given this tool and all the supplies when i worked fulltime plumbing. I lost the tool in the mean time and have looked everywhere on the internet and at multiple stores for this tool.
The tool was red and the purpose of the tool was to assist in driving a nail into the concrete block wall. the tool had a rubber grip like a chisel has. And had a shaft inside it that you would strike and drive the nail into the wall. The nails were short and had a metal washer close to the pointy part of the nail. We called the nails.... drypins. But that must not be the real name because i can't find the nails either.
I would use the tool and concrete nails when securing copper water lines with 1/2 or 3/4 straps.
if anyone knows what the tool is called or where I may buy one please reply to the thread.
06-16-2010, 09:06 AM
I know exactly what you mean, but haven't used one for probably 40-years. There are all sorts of .22 powder activated (inexpensive) tools that can do this and the pins aren't very expensive. I used them when helping my father install clamps and boxes to poured concrete while installing phone equipment. Did a quick search, and didn't find anything except long ones designed for installing them in a floor while standing, or gun activated ones.
06-16-2010, 09:36 AM
yea, i know what your saying. I've used the .22 one before, but its too powerful i think for straping the copper pipes and so forth.
06-16-2010, 10:53 AM
I don't know what the tool is, but here's what I do when I need to anchor something to concrete. I use a hammer drill and drill a 5/16" hole then insert a lead sleeve. I then use a #12 sheet metal screw to attach the "something". I prefer this method to Tapcons, but they do work also.
06-16-2010, 11:03 AM
For quick stuff, hammering in a short nail with that tool he is talking about works fine.
The only issue with the .22 jobs is using too strong of a charge and cratering the concrete...the first one is always a guess until you pick the right charge - green concrete verses aged, really hard stuff, or hitting a stone make a big difference. It's also a pain if it is not strong enough...another shot might not get it, either. I guess if you cratered the concrete with a charge, you might crimp the pipe in the process with the clamp, so a few whacks with the hammer is good. We also used a special dead blow hammer to hit them in which was much nicer than a small sledge. The sledge head sort of had a little float to it to absorb some of the shock, and not mess your hand and wrist up if you needed to do more than a couple. Now, if I could remember the name, I might be able to find it as well. Can't ask my father, he's gone...
06-16-2010, 11:08 AM
it seems to be an old school tool.. Gary, I just did a decent size remodel plumbing job and i did exactly what your talking about. The whole time i was sitting there drilling all the holes i was wishing I had the tool i had a few years ago with the nails. It is just a tool that makes the job alot quicker and easier...
06-16-2010, 01:24 PM
I use a small rotary-hammer drill (Grizzly) that uses SDS bits. For the 5/16" size, it takes only a few seconds to drill a couple of inches into concrete. I have used this method to attach 2x4s to floors and walls by drilling a pilot hole in the board then marking the spot on the concrete for the hole. That's a little more work, but it is doable. I have drilled larger holes, up to 1/2" in diameter and several inches deep for expansion bolts. The larger holes do take longer, but still is not difficult. I suppose if you can locate the tool you are looking for it would be a good choice. I've used the .22 cal drivers in the past. Lots of fun in a basement!!! My ears still ring. I had the same results as others have described in finding the right load. I just wanted to share a different way to skin the cat for what it's worth.
06-16-2010, 03:09 PM
Sounds almost like a gutter driver.
or maybe this
Google "nail driver" and then go to images.
Is this similar to the nail?
06-16-2010, 04:56 PM
The one I used was similar, but the tool was more cone shaped with a protective lip at the top and a bigger head since you need to beat on it much harder to get a hardened nail into concrete. The nails are usually much shorter with a slightly longer point. The washer fit into a recess in the tool to help hold it centered underneath the ram pin.
06-16-2010, 06:08 PM
jadnashua. The tool you are describing is exactly what i am talking about. do you have any idea where i can find one... or what company that makes it?... floridaorange.. that is not it.. but thankyou for doing some research.
06-16-2010, 07:21 PM
No idea, as I said, I last used one aboutg 40-years ago. They probably still make them, but no idea who, or where.
06-16-2010, 09:43 PM
I have one somewhere here ... only useful in concrete blocks in my experience. Concrete SCREW kits are pretty cheap and dont blow out from time to time and are about as fast with removeable feature.
I haven't used mine for a long, long time, because the "pins" for the RamSet guns are slightly too large to fit into its barrel, and I have not found anything else that fits either.
06-17-2010, 06:24 AM
I do what Gary does but use Tapcons in the lead anchors.
06-17-2010, 06:26 AM
I do what Gary does but use Tapcons in the lead anchors.
Tapcons work well on their own...using them as a common screw in a lead anchor is pretty spendy...not counting the larger hole you have to drill - more work and dust.
06-17-2010, 11:04 AM
well, if anyone that may have the tool can see what company makes the tool, ... it would be greatly appreciated.... thankyou
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17964 They also have the "non powder actuated" pins for it.
07-05-2010, 07:35 PM
hj... Nice find.. I don't know how you found the tool on the internet.. But that is aweosme. Thank you very much for finding it.