How to connect to hub & spigot cast iron?

The original main stack in our 1907 remodel is 4" cast iron hub & spigot. The topmost segment's hub is damaged so I either have to cut the pipe back or remove the topmost segment to get back to an intact hub.

What is the best way to connect a new 4" cast iron NO HUB building drain to the old hub & spigot stack at the perimeter wall?

(Also assuming I have to remove the topmost segment and get back to a clean hub... how best to accomplish?)

Thanks!

The "easiest" way is to lead/oak the new pipe into a hub. The alterative way would be to remove the hub and No-Hub connect to the pipe, but since MOST bell and spigot pipe has identification cast onto the pipe barrel below the hub, you might either have to cut more than the hub off, or grind the lettering smooth.

Like hj, I would use the hub.
We do that all the time in Seattle. We normally use the rubber hub inserts,


https://terrylove.com/lead_joint.htm

Mark Weilhammer pouring a lead joint.

I have poured a LOT of horizontal joints, but NEVER used putty to seal the rope.

Terry said:

Like hj, I would use the hub.
We do that all the time in Seattle. We normally use the rubber hub inserts,

Click to expand...

Terry, do you mean one of these Fernco rubber hub inserts?

Either #1:
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/donuts

Or these #2: http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/multi-tite-pipe-gaskets

(which?)

HJ -- I had the impression that the no-hub and bell & spigot pipes are not the same o.d. -- if so, how does cutting off the hub and using no-hub coupling ensure a good fit? (If I understand you)

SV cast iron is the same size. If you have XH cast iron then you need a "NoHub" style transition coupling. It looks like a NoHub coupling but has different sized openings on either end.