View Full Version : How to identify Gerber toilet model ?
05-08-2010, 01:25 PM
Previously, I replaced an ancient malfunctioning toilet with a Toto Drake using existing information on this site, which worked fine (many thanks).
Now, I have moved to a different house with two bathrooms, each with the same relatively new looking Gerber toilets.
Prior to my purchase, the house had been unoccupied for 6-12 months.
The two toilets (which have conventional fill valves and flappers) work fine, except on rare occasions when presented with a larger BM (no paper), at which point it overflows.
I checked on various sides of the toilets, but cannot find any identifying marks other than Gerber.
Is there some way to identify the specific model, which would then help in determining whether it is just a poorly designed model, and would also help in getting specific advice ?
PS I'm sure some will suggest "just replace them with Toto Drakes" which sounds fine in an ideal world, but money is an issue, as I am sure everyone can understand...
05-08-2010, 01:38 PM
Gerber is a inexpensive builders grade toilet. They never had a good flush. Until you can afford to replace them with you know what, just keep a plunger handy.
05-08-2010, 01:48 PM
There should be a number inside the tank pressed into the clay.
THere may be a number inside the tank lid.
06-11-2010, 12:12 PM
Okay, the tank has a number, which in the old Forum, Terry identified as being from a Gerber 21-702 toilet.
Given the model number, is this a model that is likely to overflow with large BMs, or is there more likely to be some problem other than the toilet model ?
06-11-2010, 12:25 PM
I tried that toilet in my home for a week. I overflowed the bowl.
It's a horrible toilet.
Gerber 21-702 toilet
I had the elongated bowl, 21-712
Same performance though.
06-11-2010, 03:55 PM
Thanks for your reply.
I am seeing particularly low prices on Toto "Carusoe" and "Dalton" toilets on one site, perhaps due to inventory issues ?
How do the performance on those models compare to the Drake ?
06-11-2010, 05:09 PM
Terry has indicated that the Dalton is a good, economy toilet when price is a major issue and the style is acceptable. Not sure about the Carusoe.
06-11-2010, 05:09 PM
I like the Dalton of the two.
06-23-2010, 08:24 PM
So, I ended up getting another Drake, and installed it today (after re-reading Jamie's instruction page), and everything is fine so far.
One thing in common with both Drake installations, is that following the directions, such as Jamie's:
10- tighten down each side with the washers and nuts provided. I alternate
until snug. it is not neccessary for the tank to touch the bowl on all
sides, a little gap all the way around is fine. (2-3 minutes)
the tank is then not solidly attached. If there is a gap all the way around, then someone leaning back against the tank would actually move the tank. Is that correct ? Or am I misinterpreting these instructions (which are echoed by Toto's included directions) ?
06-23-2010, 08:35 PM
You may or may not be able to move the tank. I don't worry about that.
You can also crank so hard on the nuts that the tank porcelain "pops".
06-23-2010, 11:02 PM
I was looking again at Jamie's Drake install instructions and I think I have found the difference.
In Jamie's instruction thread, there is a picture of the bottom of the tank, with the included nut and washer on the bottom of the tank. The Drake included instructions specify to put the included nut and washer on the bottom of the bowl's holes for the tank bolts. Only two nuts and two metal washers total are included with the tank.
So, if Jamie had extra nuts and washers, then the tank would be firmer on the bowl, with a nut and washer holding the rubber washer firmly against the inside of the tank, and another nut and washer holding the tank to the bowl. With only one nut and washer, pressure against the tank (such as someone seated who leans back) will cause the tank to lean back, due to the compressibility of the rubber washers.
At least that is what occurred to me as a possiblity...
Over the years, I have found that tanks which CAN move a little are less likely to crack than those tightened against the bowl. Rubber washers are compressible, but they also have a "rebound" so that is not a factor. In addition, when the tank moves it is pivoting on the bolts, so they are NOT being "stretched" as it happens.
06-24-2010, 11:02 AM
Thanks to everyone who participates regularly in these Forums, and to Terry for hosting it ! I now have two functioning Drakes, instead of two overflowing ones. Here is the latest one: