View Full Version : Toto Carlyle installation quandary...water line comes from floor, not the wall.

05-02-2010, 01:46 PM

I've got myself in a bind installing a Carlyle and thought I'd solicit everyone's advice.

I missed the water supply line restriction of the Carlyle and am half way thru an install (we've fitted the UniFit adapter to the floor). The supply line is coming from the (tile) floor.

Basically, the toilet can't be installed because the supply line is where the back extension of the toilet is.

It looks to me I have two choices:

1. Move the water supply line.
2. Cut the toilet

Cutting the toilet *seems* the easier option but I'm unsure about the risks. Assuming that we use a diamond bit, it looks straight-forward enough. Someone did point out that the cut edges may be extremely sharp. What other caveat are there?

Moving the water supply line is the more labour-intensive option. (We'd need to take the baseboard off, remove the tile, cut the subfloor, shift the line and restore.)

What are people's experience with either? Thanks.



05-02-2010, 03:16 PM
I would not consider cutting the toilet - you risk it shattering from internal stresses.

05-02-2010, 03:37 PM
Is this on the second floor, or the first?
I would move the water line from below, and drill through the tile.

I would not cut the porcelain.


Vespin II bowl, much like the Carlyle, but two-piece.

05-04-2010, 10:27 AM
Thanks for the responses.

I too am mildly concerned about ruining the toilet by haphazard cutting.

The toilet is on the second floor so moving the supply line is rather involved (as I've described) and messy as I would have to tear a section of the ceiling apart.

I did come up with a hacky solution. The house is a standard 12" offset. Switching to the 10" UniFit adapter would bring the toilet forward (away from the wall) by an additional 2" which allows the supply line to clear. Hardly a good solution but it sure beats the alternatives.

I've ordered the shorter adapter and will let people know how it works.

BTW, the Carlyle I have is the MS874114SG which looks the one here:




Gary Swart
05-04-2010, 10:44 AM
This is a slightly better idea that cutting the toilet, but before you do this, why not consider that this installation is forever. Why not do what has to be done and do the job in a professional way rather than a hack way? You'll never miss or regret the few hours or so it may take to reroute the water inlet, but you'll forever regret not doing it right. Do a job you can be proud of and not one you will always have to make excuses for.

05-04-2010, 02:40 PM
Save the 12" unifit adapter if you ever remodel or decide to change your mind. If the ceiling below isn't textured, it normally isn't a big deal to cut a hunk out, move the plumbing, then patch it back. If it is textured, that's a different story. If you cut along the joists, you can screw the same piece back in. If not, then you need to install some blocking to screw it back in place, then patch and paint.

05-06-2010, 03:21 PM

Gary: Thanks for the encouragement.

I am in general in favor of doing things right. But there's also the time and economic angle.

I have already went thru one round of "doing it right" in another bathroom and am not too eager to sink another couple of week into this. You're right that the time to move the line is in hours but the ceiling work is quite a bit more once I factor in the prep and restoration.

jadnashua: The problem in my case is exactly that the ceiling is textured. Your's is the second warning I have receive to beware of the extra work when restoring a textured ceiling. But yes, I do intend to keep the 12" UniFit in case I have a chance to revisit it.

(Still waiting for the adapter as we speak.)