View Full Version : Help..Broken micro-switch tab, twice
04-26-2010, 02:52 PM
My Kenmore softener was consistently running. After looking, I noticed the white tab on the microswitch had broken off. I ordered a new one, installed, and the white tab broke off right away. I was able to epoxy the outer shell back so the switch is fine, but before I reinstall it, I wanted to know what would keep causing the switch to break? It is a Kenmore 625. 348670. The switch does not have the metal arm, just the white button., It does look very tight tolerances when the hub rotates, any ideas?
04-26-2010, 03:01 PM
The rotor seal is acting like a rubber band when the rotor turns. You need to replace the rotor seal.
04-26-2010, 03:16 PM
Thanks for the quick reply... I am confused, what does the rotor seal do?
How would that affect the switch breaking?
04-28-2010, 07:41 PM
Did you replace the micro switch with the same kind of micro switch?
Did the old one have a metal arm or the little white button?
What is the new one that sears says is the one for your unit?
Possible that they sent the wrong one?
04-29-2010, 03:52 PM
i replaced with the exact same switch. Here is the pic. I just got my entire seal kit, replaced rotor seal and orings like stated in earlier post, put new switch on, it made it a few clicks then BROKE again. I know my old switch did not have the tab. I am stumped..... Something caused the switch to break and keep breaking.
04-29-2010, 04:14 PM
Basically same setup and switch as in the pics in this link...
04-29-2010, 04:24 PM
One of the reasons that I am not fond of the sears units....
Metal cam is still turning in the same direction that it was before..
First one broke the same way that the second one did...
I ask about the rotation of the cam becuase I just had to replace a motor that was turning counter clock wise when it should have been doing clock wise... talk about doing a number on the rest of the system....
04-29-2010, 04:27 PM
Yes, cam is turning the correct clockwise way. both broke the same way. I understand the design, the tapered groove which should slowly press the switch down, but i am at a loss.
04-29-2010, 04:31 PM
Like wise,,, I am running over a few ideas in the mind...
The first one or old one might have been because of age, but the second one after a turn or two of the cam.. that is a puzzle.
04-30-2010, 04:59 AM
Ok, the 2nd broken switch was actually a repaired switch with epoxy after it broke. Remember I bought this switch after the 1st broke, installed it BEFORE I got the rotor seal kit, and it broke.
So, I installed the new one I just got and it ran the complete cycle last night...so the repair was probably not sufficient... I'll monitor it and let you know. Thanks for the help...