View Full Version : Circa 1932 Standard Flushometer Toilet--multi questions

04-04-2010, 08:09 PM

I own a home built in 1932--One bathroom has American Standard Fixtures--a pedestal sink with integral spout and a tub, plus a flushometer toilet in a pale yellow color.

The old Sloan Valve did not have the pressure to flush--we also tried a 1.6GPF Sloan Flushometer, but my plumber could not make the connection between the bowl and the valve vertical pipe to not leak. He attributes this to alignment from home settlement--and, besides the 1.6GPF valve still did not have enough force to clear the bowl.

Now my wife, of course does not wish to replace the toilet because we are unsure we can find a matching color, and she wishes to keep the bathroom original. As of now, the toilet does nothing--no Sloan valve connected even.

Id like to find out how to identify the actual color of the fixtures--anyone know how to do that?? Is it on the toilet anywhere, or on the underside of the sink?

My other idea/question is, would it be possible to affix a regular tank to a toilet that had a flushometer? We can move the water line, because, unbelievably, we have extra tile for the wall. (We did this in another bathroom where the fixtures were white and we replaced toilet with a modern Gerber and it works great)

The existing toilet is a 14" rough--and I could even live with a 12" rough tank and a shelf/enclousure built over the toilet to keep the wife happy--white or matching yellow tank would not matter to her as long as I kept seeking a yellow tank.

Apparently Gerber makes a Citron Yellow 12" rough toilet--which in online pictures looks close to the fixtures I have, but I am not sure if the color will match, since I do not know the name of the color I have.

If anyone can give any advice on determining the color, and if I could drop a tank on this existing bowl, would be greatly appreciated. Other creative solutions are welcome too.

I would be able to provide photos if helpful in making an ID.

Thanks in advance for advice.

04-05-2010, 03:08 PM
1: Trying to match a color is almost impossible, manufactors only keep the colors for a limited number of years. 2: Did your plumber? check the incomming pressure in the house? most flushometer valves need 25lbs. at the fixture to work. 3: It's almost a zero chance that you can put a tank on the bowl. 4: They do make 14in. rough-in toilets, check around and see if there is anything thats suitable, luck.

04-06-2010, 06:11 AM
The difference between a 1.6, 3.5, and 6 gpf Sloan valve is in the internal interchangeable mechanism, NOT the valve, so if one does not flush properly NONE of them will. There is no sane way to convert a flush valve toilet to a tank type, and even if you could there would definitely not be enough pressure to flush it. The first thing to do is find out WHY the flushometer is not flushing the toilet. It could be a lack of pressure or volume in the system in which case there are some procedures that might be available to increase them.

04-07-2010, 01:29 PM
hj: I think that it is pretty bogus that you added this to my post >>>IF the plumber thought changing the flush valve was a good option, and could NOT get the connection to stop leaking, then you need a different plumber, because a smart plumber would not have done the first thing, and WOULD have done the second.<<<

I think that if you have a comment, pro or con it should be in your own post, not tacked on someone else's. :(

05-28-2010, 01:06 PM
Hi, as per the above comments, you probably have a 6 GPF toilet. If it's not too late, call me at Sloan (847.671.4300) ask for Kirk Allen, and I will send you the right kit. You can do the work yourself, it's a piece of cake. Hope we can save your wife's toilet!

05-29-2010, 08:22 AM
My comment was relative to the original question and should have been attached to it. I am not sure how it got where it was, but is back where it belongs.
1. IF the toilet NEEDED a 6 gpf flush valve, WHY would anyone assume a 1.6 gpf mechanism would even begin to flush it.
2. ALSO, if that WOULD work, all he had to do was change the internal components to a 1.6 gpf version. (They are INTERCHANGEABLE after all.)
3. ALSO, it the original flush valve DID NOT leak, there was no reason why the 1.6 gpf one would either. AND it would have NOTHING to do with settling.
4. My original statement holds. That the plumber was NOT competent to do the work if he thought his solutions were viable.