Replace entire assembly or its ok?

Andrew21 · Jan 15, 2010

Hey all,

Noobie here, redoing the bathroom, tore out the walls and have a several questions:

1. Can I just cut off or heat up and remove the valves to cap them? Then when I'm done, put new valves on them? Or should I just cut everything out?

2. The 'green' corrosion, is that ok? Should I cut the pipe or heat the pipe off from the angle?

3. If you see the first pic, you should see that the cold water pipe going to the toilet. Its kind of bent. I sure as hell didn't do it but its working fine. While I have the walls up, should I change that out?

I'm asking these questions because I don't want to run into any problems later on after I seal up the walls.

Thanks guys!

NHmaster · Jan 15, 2010

Horrible soldering job, cut the messy crap out and re-do it. Yes you can cap them until you are ready to continue. Use sharkbite caps, you won't have to worry about water in the pipes and they come off easy.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Andrew21 · Jan 15, 2010

Peter Griffin said:
Horrible soldering job, cut the messy crap out and re-do it. Yes you can cap them until you are ready to continue. Use sharkbite caps, you won't have to worry about water in the pipes and they come off easy.

thanks Peter.

I've never used sharkbite caps before. If I'm reading correctly, do I just push them on? how about taking them off? do I need special tools?

what about that pipe going to the toilet? the bent part is driving me nuts

NHmaster · Jan 15, 2010

yep, push em on. they do make a tool to remove them but you can use an adjustable wrench. How to remove them will be obvious to you when the time comes.

Andrew21 · Jan 15, 2010

Thank goodness. Something easy until I start doing the real thing! LOL

Jadnashua · Jan 15, 2010

If you have enough length to install a new valve once the walls are up, just cut the old ones off. If there are any lumps of solder, you'll need to use a rag to wipe them off while hot if you unsolder them. The Sharkbite needs a clean, or at least smooth surface for the gasket to seal. They're a great time-saver, but a solder cap is cheaper. You need to push the ring to release the Sharkbite when the time comes... http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite_pushfit.php

Andrew21 · Jan 15, 2010

I'll heat up the hot angle and take the plumbing out of there. I'll do the same with the T connector also. Why not since I have the walls exposed. Thanks! Will keep you posted.

Andrew21 · Feb 6, 2010

Ok, update. I took out more of the walls and found this!

Now shouldn't I move this pipe over? Anyway I was thinking about taking this entire pipe out from the cold water feed. How can I do this now since they notched out the pipe from the other side? How do I go about replacing this now?

Cacher_Chick · Feb 6, 2010

Just because it's not pretty don't mean you need to throw it out. That piping will be fine left alone for another 50 years.

It would also be much easier to work if you got that toilet out of there!

jay_wat · Feb 6, 2010

how much work do you want to get into?? me?? with the walls down,,id redo them all,, and if your just going to leave them,,thats your call of course!

hj · Feb 6, 2010

SOmeone liked to use a tubing bender. They also were lucky, because rigid copper USUALLY kinks when you try to bend it.

Export! · Feb 6, 2010

The copper would have been better isolated from drywall screws if it had been run through holes drilled in the centre of the studs. Seeing as the opposite wall is already finished and you're unlikely to hang any pictures 8" off the floor I guess you're OK.

Gardner · Feb 7, 2010

The only thing I would recommend is ensuring you have a good serviceable trap adapter on that drain before you close anything in. The present trap arm is soldered onto the copper and you will find it very difficult to adjust it when it come to fitting a new sink. Cut it off now and fit a new trap adapter. It will make your life easier later on.

Personally I would plan to replace all the stops with new ball valves too.

Andrew21 · Feb 7, 2010

gardner said:
The only thing I would recommend is ensuring you have a good serviceable trap adapter on that drain before you close anything in. The present trap arm is soldered onto the copper and you will find it very difficult to adjust it when it come to fitting a new sink. Cut it off now and fit a new trap adapter. It will make your life easier later on.

Personally I would plan to replace all the stops with new ball valves too.

Holy crap. I didn't even notice that! Thank you.

I was going to cut everything out and replace everything new. I'm having issues with the pipe running to the toilet. I have no access to that and if I do cut it out, I don't want to notch it on the other side. That will weaken the stud. I can get to the other side which is my kitchen, and I am planning to redo later on. Don't feel like using a sawzall through the old cabinets but it may look like I have to.

Gardner · Feb 8, 2010

Andrew21 said:
I was going to cut everything out and replace everything new.

I realise you're getting mixed signals on that score. My opinion (and do not confuse this with advice) is that a total tear-out is not warranted.

Most of the copper drain that is accessible here is vent, and I doubt very much that anything is likely to go wrong with it, even in another 50 years. The copper supply tubing is most likely as good as the day it was put in -- even with the messy solder joints. Potentially, there could be some erosion on the drain. When you cut things apart to put the new trap adapter on, check out the inside bottom of that trap arm and see if there is any noticable pitting. If someone made a habit of putting drain-openers down it, there could be corrosion issues.

Andrew21 · Feb 8, 2010

Thank you!

I might as well just take the supply lines and redo them. I do have it open but want to make sure everything is new. I take your word on the joints being ok. I just want it this way. Peace of mind. Still up in the air.

I know for a fact that my grandmother never used any of the drain openers. She never purchased that stuff. I'll look anyway =)

btw, I have a toilet flange question. Should I put it in here or in the other forums? Thanks!

andrew

Andrew21 · Oct 7, 2010

After getting some time and money together, My dad and I cut off some of the piping and capped it.

Now, We are going to put in new piping. Question though.. The pipe that runs from the cold water to the toilet, the pipe was notched in the studs. Should I notch it in the other side? That would weaken the stud right? Or just put it back on the other side?

Inspektor Ludwig · Oct 7, 2010

Looks like you've gotten quite alot of different opinions on this one, I may be alone on this but I'm a firm believer in replacing piping in an older home, whenever you have an opportunity . Don't get me wrong, a good copper job should last you decades but that all depends on how the intial install was to begin with. I wonder how much solder ended up inside the pipe? How many times are you actually going to open the same wall? Better to do it now then when you're all done with the remodel and something goes boobies up years down the road. I would just use the notched openings that are already there. And a note about the "Shark Bite" fittings, I'm not a fan but they are easy to install but so are your typical compression angle stops, I would choose the latter.

Redwood · Oct 8, 2010

Inspektor Ludwig said:
And a note about the "Shark Bite" fittings, I'm not a fan but they are easy to install but so are your typical compression angle stops, I would choose the latter.

Compression cannot be used inside the wall.

Andrew21 · Oct 8, 2010

Yeah, i'm going to put the pipe on the other side of the wall, and clean everything up. Going to do with with my dad tomorrow. Lets wish me some luck!

Replace entire assembly or its ok?

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