View Full Version : Sewage pump basin
09-03-2005, 10:48 AM
I'm installing a sewage pump basin into an original utility/washer sump pump hole. I have another sump pump for the rain water. My question is when I was cleaning out the hole I noticed that table water came back in. Could I drill small holes in the bottom of the basin to allow table water to enter? Or will the rain water sump handle this? This is for a basement bathroom install.
Also, is there a way to cut cast iron without a snapper? My floor drain is cast and I wanted it to tie into the new pvc drain.
09-03-2005, 06:56 PM
If you put holes in the tank, this would also act as a sump for the ground water, plus, you'd be adding polution to the ground water, as things will go both ways. My unprofessional opinion. You need to anchor that extraction tank well, or it will float up from the ground water.
09-03-2005, 07:55 PM
Absolutely do not drill holes in that pit. If you are getting ground water back in that pit then you need to leave that pit for the function it serves, get a sewage ejector pit next to it. Otherwise you will find yourself with numerous problems, along with sewage odor inside the home and outside the home with no way to get rid of it.
09-03-2005, 11:46 PM
rent a snapper. or buy a ridgid for $300. sweet tool!
dont drill the ejector pump. human waste under your slab!
your basement would smell like john wayne gasey's crawl space!
09-04-2005, 08:04 AM
I didn't think that drilling holes in the bottom of the basin was a good idea. I just didn't understand why the rain water sump wasn't pumping the table water out. I looked into the rain water sump and there is water in there. When I lift up on the float the pump does work. Should I lower the pump into the hole or is there a way to adjust the float level? Maybe the pump isn't pumping out enough of the rain water that's why I'm seeing water in the other sump.
09-04-2005, 08:07 AM
Has anyone use this blade in their reciprocating saw to cut cast? I read that it's suppose to do a good job.
Sawzall Blade Tungsten Carbide 9" L
Milwaukee designs and manufactures Sawzall blades for the toughest professional applications. Designed for maximize performance in specific cutting applications. Durable, long life blades are the goal of every blade we make. This blade has a 1/2 inch universal tang that fits all Sawzalls and standard competitive saws. Includes three individual blades. Coarse Grit, 9" for cutting hardwood flooring, cast iron, stainless steel, fiberglass materials, (polyesters, epoxies, melamines), ceramic tile, stone, slate, clay pipe, carbon, brick, plaster, marble, and chalkboard.
• 1/2 in. Universal Tang fits all Sawzalls
• Coarse Grit, 9 in. Length, Tungsten Carbide Blade
• Medium and coarse grits for cutting hardwood flooring, cast iron, stainless steel, fiberglass materials, (polyesters, epoxies, melamines), ceramic tile, stone, slate, clay pipe, carbon, brick, plaster, marble, and chalkboard.
• 3 blades per pouch
Store SKU # 132370
Internet # 169365
Catalog # 100088519
09-04-2005, 09:12 AM
Sawzall blades work if you have an hour to spend cutting the cast iron. I use an angle grinder with a 4" diamond blade that goes right through cast iron without sparks. Water always seeks it level; if it is far enough below the concrete slab to prevent moisture up above then it is fine. The sump pump was there for a reason, I would not disable it. Not too smart of an idea especially if turbulent weather happens to come around.
master plumber mark
09-04-2005, 10:12 AM
you are just going to have to install a new
hole in the ground.
tear up the concrete and install a new pit --- or someday
if you ever want to sell the house ,
if it is caught by an inspector,
you will have to do it right
or you will have to do it all over again...
and that will not be cheap.....
so bite the bullett and DO IT RIGT the first time
09-05-2005, 12:56 PM
I recently did some plumbing at my son's older house. Needed to connect a kitchen and laundry drain line to 2" cast iron drain pipe. Checked with couple of tool rental companies and they didn't have the snapper tool. So I bought a large pack of regular Milwaukee metal cutting blades (fine tooth). I was amazed at how quickly they cut right through that cast iron pipe. Original blade made both cuts in several minutes each.