Please comment on my DWV diagram

mjsmith0

mjsmith0

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I adding a bathroom upstairs in my house (There is only sink there now). I've done some minor plumbing in the past, but this will be the biggest one by far for me.

I've pretty much figured out how I am going to run the drain and vent pipes, but I'm not exactly sure what fittings to use where. I made a 2D diagram that shows all the fittings. Does anything look out of whack?
http://picasaweb.google.com/mjsmith000/BathroomRemodel#5414568278962719298
Thanks a million!
 
Last edited:
This is a pretty ambitious DIY project....toilet, separate tub and shower, 2 sinks and a washing machine! Most of us are certainly envious of the whatever you have create the drawing!

I see a couple of problems:
> the shower drain is an S-trap.
> the vent off the top of the 3" tee where the shower ties in...is a horizontal vent below the flood rim of the fixtures.
 
The heel outlet vent off the toilet is not code.
the shower has an s trap
the laundry needs to dump into a 3" pipe
 
Dwv

Add in the sanitary tees in the horizontal drain, and a layout that I might make "massive" changes to if I were installing that system. Do the "double" floor joists mean you have a "step up" into the bathroom?
 
You guys are are great. I updated my Powerpoint drawing based on your suggestions that I hope work.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mjsmith000/BathroomRemodel#5414787914171908306

I also included a more accurate detail of the shower drain design that shows the framing members.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mjsmith000/BathroomRemodel#5414784328437581410

Basically the second floor is supported by 2x12's with 2x6" on top, running perpendicular to the 2x12's with 3/4" plywood sandwiched in between. The 2D diagram doesn't show it, but the main drainage line runs between the 2x12's, with the fixture drains running laterally above them between the 2x6's.
 
You need to get rid of the san-T coming off the 2nd lav there.

You can't use a san-T on it's back like that. You can only use a san-T to go from horizontal to veritical, not vertical to horizontal :D

Other then that I just looked over it real quick but it looks pretty good.

I'm jealous of the drawing :P Looks pretty professional!
 
Is this better?

If only I was as good a plumber as I am an artist! Thank you for the lesson on Sanitary Tee orientation. Is this better?
 

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San Tee on its back in the first drawing for the 2nd sink. The other one is OK because it is for a vent. Oops, looks like you corrected aht

No reason for the laundry to be 3". It only needs to be 2" why was that information given?

How about a cleanout in that last connection to the horizontal building drain.
 
Peter Griffin said:
Jar, IPC laundry has to drain into 3" now
Click to expand...

I do not recall that as being a change from the BOCA plumbing, UPC or any of the I-Codes since 2000. Please direct me to where this was changed, I cannot find it.

I just checked the IPC and it still requires a 2" for the automatic clothes washer. They don't make laundry inserts with a 3" hole.
 
TABLE 709.1
DRAINAGE FIXTURE UNITS FOR FIXTURES AND GROUPS
FIXTURE TYPE
DRAINAGE FIXTURE UNIT
VALUE AS LOAD FACTORS
MINIMUM SIZE OF TRAP
(inches)
Automatic clothes washers, residentialg 2 & 2
 
This is just Powerpoint. I pasted the fittings from images on the web, and the pipes are just boxes with a gradient filling so they look like pipes. I did a pretty picture because it helps me visualize how things fit together better. It also makes it easier for me to explain things because I don't know all the proper terminology. ...plus it just looks cool!
 
Jar 09 IPC - the trap arm and stand pipe still 2" but it must connect to either a 2" vert or horiz main.
 
mjsmith0 said:
This is just Powerpoint. I pasted the fittings from images on the web, and the pipes are just boxes with a gradient filling so they look like pipes. I did a pretty picture because it helps me visualize how things fit together better. It also makes it easier for me to explain things because I don't know all the proper terminology. ...plus it just looks cool!
Click to expand...


You figure out how to make a software that the average plumber can build with that look and make it without any learning curve, you'll mint your own money with that idea.
 
Thanks JAR for the tips. I think I got the vent pipe angles right, tilting them towards the drains at 1/4" per foot. I was surprised that 3" was suggested for the washer drain. I'll call the inspector's office to see what they say too.

I did consider a cleanout on the last connection like you suggested, but this is on the second floor and the cleanout would be 12' in the air at the side of the house. Is it common to do that?

Here is a question I've been wondering about. I designed the the stack vent (if that is what that thing is called) as 3". I wonder if I could get away with 2" instead? I also need to figure out how the whole testing thing works and probably have to add fittings for that too

The more I get into this, the more I appreciate the knowledge it takes to be a plumber!:D
 
Peter Griffin said:
Jar 09 IPC - the trap arm and stand pipe still 2" but it must connect to either a 2" vert or horiz main.
Click to expand...

Did you mean "either a 3" vert or horiz main?"

That's odd considering washers are actually discharging less water than they used to, with the high-efficiency trends catching on.
 
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