View Full Version : Laars Mascot

12-09-2009, 11:05 AM
I have a LAARS MASCOT and it has been calibrated by a technician. Every winter it throws error 133 (no flame) . When I reset it and watch it try to start the flame goes on for 2 seconds then blows out. 3 tries and throws error 153 (no start Lockout). I am at 7072ft elevation. Does anyone know what the problem is? It has been working flawlessly all summer.

12-09-2009, 11:21 AM
Only thing that the seasons might bring is in the summer, you probably have the windows open, and in the cold, everything is buttoned up. Makeup air? If the flue is burried in snow, you could have problems, too.

Is this thing a closed combustion system (i.e., gets it's combustion air through a pipe from outside)? If not installed properly, ice can clog things up and prevent it from working properly.

DOes the flame actually come on? If it does, then the sensor may not be working properly or the air flow has changed and it is not in the flame, or it's dirty. If the flame doesn't actually come on, the igniter may be bad.

12-09-2009, 11:28 AM
Thanks for the reply. It is closed getting the air from outside. The snow hasn't or will not reach the pipe. But, you bring up an interesting point... Ice can build up on the pipe from the exhaust right? It is a condesing system so there is steam and it does shut all the way down when there is no call from the stats. Especially when I run the pellet stove.

12-09-2009, 12:33 PM
I have a Buderus. WHen the installers put in the air pipes (pvc), they didn't follow the manufacturer's diagrams and had the hot and cold reversed to the vent termination fixture. Maybe counterintuitively, on the vent hood I have, the hot goes out the lower pipe and the cold intake comes in the upper. One might think that the hot would pollute the intake air. ANyway, they had it backwards, and the condensation from the exhaust, instead of falling harmlessly down and not blocking the intake, when the intake was below, got all iced over and the thing stopped working on a very cold day! After a call the manufactuer to verify, I had them back out to rearrange the pipes.

If you don't have the proper slope to the lines, or have the arrangement setup properly, ice clogs could be an issue. Most of these have a condensate drain, but there's still hot moist air that hasn't release all of its moisture going out the pipe. SOme of it will condense, and could freeze. Enough of it, and you have problems.

12-09-2009, 01:54 PM
My exhaust is coax. It blows out the center and intakes from below from the outer pipe back about 2 inches. (Yes below) I am very curious now that you mentioned that. Ice could possibly build up since so much steam comes out of it. It also only happens on very cold mornings.
-1 degree last night. I know--- Not that cold of east coast standards (Us californians are wimps) but still I cannot fathom that this pipe is not engineered for it.

I went home to check on it during the day when it is warmer and boom the boiler started after a reset. What the?

This seems to be temperature related. Maybe I should try to insulate the exhaust pipe. Any suggestions?

12-16-2009, 10:28 AM
It was not the boiler at all. A few days later the Propane tank regulator went out. So I think that was the culprit all along. Slow death..

12-29-2009, 01:17 PM
It happened again. It wasn't the regulator I guess. Anyone an expert at this boiler?

12-29-2009, 02:22 PM
If it wasn't derated properly for the high altitude with a kit, that would be the problem.
Error 133 is also a gas supply fault
Your Laars Mascot is Made by BAXI

01-04-2010, 09:59 AM
Are you sure that there is no cross contamination via the vent pipe. Either at the seal at the top of the unit or at where any pieces of pipe meet?