View Full Version : How to join new cleanout to angled sewer line?

10-29-2009, 06:21 PM
I have an issue where the sewer line meets the house waste line, just outside the foundation. The sewer line has dropped a couple inches (see pictures). The no-hub coupling is still holding, which I find very impressive. I believe it to be original and would make it 30 years old. At first I thought it was some weird offset fitting and couldn't believe such a crazy thing was made. As impressive as it is, it's restricting the flow of the line by about half. (the roots restricting the remaining is another issue)

At any rate I want to install a double cleanout, which I was going to make out of a couple PVC wyes but am having difficulty tyring to figure out how to best join it between the cast iron coming out of the house and the sewer line. I can't figure out what the sewer line is made of. My first thought when I saw it was that is was concrete, but then I realized the OD wasn't big enough (at least for the type I've seen). The pipe is white or light gray. Others have suggested it's clay, but the color doesn't seam right and the material doesn't quite feel right. It also has a pattern of squares, like it was wrapped in 1/4" hardware cloth.

The cast iron coming out of the house is only a little more than 2 feet below the surface. This far north, I'd say that's too shallow and probably part of the reason the sewer line has shifted. I plan to put a piece of rigid insulation on top before totally covering it up. This should take care of the frost issue as it's a common method for laying a shallow slab.

So, I have this sewer line that's at a decent angle (around 14 degrees), and haven't thought of a goof way to join it to the PVC. A 1/32 bend would probably be pretty close, but such a thing doesn't seem to exist. I'm trying to make it simple and not introduce a bunch of friction.

Thanks for any help!

10-29-2009, 07:16 PM
The line going to the sewer is asbestos. What has to be done is cut a section out and install a Y and clean out and realign the asbestos to the cast iron as best you can. The problem you have is cutting the asbestos. Don't try to do it with a saw use a cast iron snap cutter. It will put less asbestos in the air. I would still use some type of face mask.


Gary Swart
10-29-2009, 07:29 PM
FYI, that connector is not a no-hub. It is a regular Fernco. Although this is a legal coupler underground, I would use a true no hub when reassembling. The no-hub will provide more rigidity to the joint.

10-29-2009, 07:47 PM
Holy crap! Abspestos in a 30 year old house!? I thought it was banned before 1980. I'm glad I asked.
Regarding the coupling, I realized when I reread it that I miss identified it. Thanks.

10-29-2009, 08:14 PM
After doing a little searching it turns out its far from banned in the US. The things you learn...

10-30-2009, 05:37 AM
Once Transite pipe has been exposed to water for a while, it is too soft to cut with a snap cutter. The wheels will just imbed themselves in the pipe without cutting it. I have cut miles of asbestos pipe, back in the day, with an abrasive wheel and am still here. The problem he has is that the sewer has settled causing the offset. He should dig up more pipe so he can insert a new piece with a better, if not perfect, alignment.