Reseting my Franklin Controller often, water shutting off

mrmike

mrmike

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My well is about 4 yrs old. My controller box keeps shutting off. I have to reset it often sometimes several times a day. I have had the well guy check it and we replaced it twice now. The pressure goes low then just shuts off. I go downstairs reset the buttom then the water and pressure is fine. I was told they may have to pull the pump and check it (all day job they said). My well is 700 ft. A lot of times it happens when were in the shower but really happens any part of the day. When I push the reset buttom it sometimes clicks several times. We do have quite a bit of sediment in the water so I filter it and have a water softner too. The water is excellent. At first the controller was running to hot (too many amps) and then shutting off. Does anyone have an idea on what could be wrong? What the cost would be to fix this problem?

Also, if I have a lot of sediment would it be beneficial to allow the faucet at the well to run to empty the well out to get rid of the bigger sediment and let it replenish again and see if that helps???
 
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Has your well guy checked the wiring for shorts to ground, and checked what the motor windings are. Your well may be running low on water causing the pump to trip the thermal overload on the motor. The pump may also be locking up trying to pass sediment too big for it, or the motor could have an internal problem with it. You may also have a dead short in the wiring or the motor. If it has to be pulled it would be fairly expensive depending on the labor rate and whether they have to change the wiring to the pump, motor on the pump, wet end of the pump, or a combination of the three. Changing the control box is usually a temporary fix for the underlying problem.
 
Thanks for your response. He did check the ground and as far as I know it was good. I am not sure what or if he checked the motor windings? What exactly are the motor windings and how do they check them?

Also, if I have a lot of sediment would it be beneficial to allow the faucet at the well to run to empty the well out to get rid of the bigger sediment and let it replenish again and see if that helps???
 
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Shorts to ground checks the insulation around the wiring and lets you know if there's a breakdown in it somewhere or in multiple spots as a well pump torques on start up and the wiring could be rubbing somewhere. Or the motor wiring internally could be wearing down. Checking the motor windings checks the electrical resistance through the motor. Running the water level down through the tap at the wellhead may not solve the problem. It depends on the type of sediment coming into the well through the water veins. If it's small enough to pass through the pump it can be filtered afterwards. If not you may need to install some kind of screen in the well to keep it from passing through the pump.
 
Thanks Teets. I just had to reset the button 4 times in a row before the pressure stayed normal which is odd. I did let the faucet at the wellhead run for a while yesterday but obviously it did not work. Where would you put a screen and would you have to pull the pump in the well to do that? I am trying to avoid the costly pulling the pump from the well, etc.
 
If you are getting that much sediment the screen at the pump is probably pretty much plugged solid which will make the pump pop the overload button. Yes, it has to come up.
 
Thanks. I used to change my house filter every 2-3 weeks. This year I have to change it weekly and sometimes more due to sediment and clay build up in the filter. That being said, the screen at the filter should be checked, etc you say. What do they do when they pull the pump? Check it, clean it, and put in back? What should you do to avoid this problem in the future so you do not have to pull the pump again?
 
I suspect that they will probably pull it and tell you to buy a new one. there are "socks" that can be put over the pump to keep the sediment out of it.
 
How deep is your pump set?A new pump won't clear your water.Pull ypur pump off the bottom,this may help.Do you have a cased well,then hardrock below?Do you have a copy of your well report?Easy deal with all the info. Upper
 
I will get the well report tomorrow. I just realized that when my hot water tank is filling it tends to shut off the water a lot and I have to reset the button most of the time for this reason. I bypassed my filter so it goes thru a water cleaner and softner only now. What does it mean when a lot of times the water will shut off when the hot water heater is filling?? I just put in a new filter yesterday and it shut off this afternoon so I put it on bypass then it shut off and when I came down to reset the button the hot water heater was trying to fill up.
 
Having to push a Reset button means that is an electrical problem that needs to be corrected before the Reset button doesn't do anything and you're out of water until the cause of the problem is found and fixed. Which could take 2-4 days depending on when and what time it is when it quits working.
 
When I push the reset button most of the time it clicks a few times then one last click and it is ok or it will do one last click and shut off again. It seems like there is a lot of sediment coming in the line clogging up the system. I have had 2 control(Franklin) boxes replaced already. One around 2 yrs ago and then one recently.
 
The well was 700 ft. Pump set at 640 ft.

0-23 overburden
23 bedrock
23-700 shale
670 water

4 gpm
Grout 0-80 Bore Hole size 10 (Benseal) (Tremie Pipe)
Casing 0-80, Size 6 5/8, material: steel
 
My guess is your well is now only 645 feet deep.Whoever comes out to do the work should be ready to sleave or screen.And if in fact the well has filled.blow out the offending sediment..........Upper
 
mrmike said:
When I push the reset button most of the time it clicks a few times then one last click and it is ok or it will do one last click and shut off again. It seems like there is a lot of sediment coming in the line clogging up the system. I have had 2 control(Franklin) boxes replaced already. One around 2 yrs ago and then one recently.
Click to expand...
Which seems to prove it is not the control box, there is something else causing the box to shut off the power to the pump. And if you don't fix it you are going to end up with no water until the cause is found and fixed.

You have a rock bore well and the pump will have to be pulled to find and fix the cause of the problem. It's Monday, call a driller or pump guy and describe the problem to them and have one come out ready to pull the pump.
 
I am having the well guy come out and determine how deep the well is now. Find out where the water line/level is out and pull the pump depending on those 2 things. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
Sounds like the control box problem is because of a short somewhere between the control box and the pump or even the pump it's self. A qualified and NGWA certified well or pump man can and will check that before pulling the pump.

If they do have to replace the pump don't let them sell you a new variable flow computerized pump. They area nightmare and costly. Install a regular pump and a Cycle Stop Valve www.cyclestopvalves.com. CSV's are all mechanical and will give you constant pressure like city water.

The silt is another matter. Consult your NGWA Certified Drilling Contractor www.ngwa.org about that!

Porky Cutter, MGWC
NGWA certified "Master Ground Water Contractor"
 
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