Fillmaster valve repair

I have an old Fillmaster valve that will not shut off completely.

I would rather not replace the entire valve because the plumber who installed it had to "rig" it to make it work. I would have to also replace the shutoff valve coming out of the wall if I replace the toilet fill valve.

Is there any way to repair the FillMaster Mark lll valve?

You bring up some questions that should be answered to give you proper advice.
1. Why did the original plumber have to "rig it" and what was the way it was rigged?
2. Why would you have to replace the shut off valve and how do you expect to turn the water off to service the valve if the shut off is defective?

FillMaster repair

The "rigged" shut of valve is not the question.

Do they make repair kits for FillMaster valves?

Just go get a fluidmaster 400 and follow the directions. Bada Bing

Well, I'm not sure how you plan to shut off the water during the repair (at the street or house supply I suppose.) At any rate, if you can't get hooked up with a kit, simply buy the new fill valve and use it as a parts donor for the old one.

fillmaster

Fillmaster is not the valve of choice for most manufacturers, and parts stores, so a repair kit, or even a new valve, may be difficult or impossible to find. The "rigged" repair IS germaine to the question, because there should be no reason why it had to be rigged. And the supply valve from the wall either works or it does not. If it does not, then you should replace it, but that seldom has anything to do with replacing the fill valve. We replace fill valves without changing the shutoff valve, AND also, replace shutoff valves without replacing the fill valve, all the time.

Ok so this is why I say it is rigged...

The shutoff valve is connected to PB through the wall. The shutoff valve is one piece and has the pipe that goes to the toilet built in. It does not come off. The pipe going to the toilet is a chrome "spiral" pipe that was cut to length. The end of the "spiral" pipe should have had a smooth transition on the end for the rubber gasket to seal against but it was cut off.

I moved the toilet once to tile the floor. When I tried to tighten the rubber seal against the "spiral" pipe, it would not stop leaking. I finally had to get a plumber to come and look at it. He put a pipe wrench on the plastic nut and gave it three or four VERY hard turns to get it to stop leaking. I would never have tightened a plastic nut that tight. But it has held up for 10 years.

Anyway, that's why I don't want to replace the entire assembly. I have opened another thread about replacing the shutoff valve so I can eliminate this problem.

The shutoffs with the integrated supply hose are a disaster waiting to happen...I'd replace it.

So what brand of shutoff valve?

I saw about 4 brands of valves. Which one should i use?