New plumbing job look ok?
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hj
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Dwv
You mean besides the shower trap not being vented and the toilet discharge flows past it? Major no-no under most codes and would be rejected by a conscientious inspector. The flat toilet vent is another problem. I would have installed the vertical vent at the sink, as you have it, but then put a left hand inlet sanitary tee in the riser and ran a line to the toilet with the shower entering the side inlet. One pipe and a lot less work. And NO violations.
You mean besides the shower trap not being vented and the toilet discharge flows past it? Major no-no under most codes and would be rejected by a conscientious inspector. The flat toilet vent is another problem. I would have installed the vertical vent at the sink, as you have it, but then put a left hand inlet sanitary tee in the riser and ran a line to the toilet with the shower entering the side inlet. One pipe and a lot less work. And NO violations.
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HJ, under the new IPC you can wet vent in any order you want, even though I think it's crap that part would pass IPC. So will the shower because the 3" lav drain serves as it's wet vent. However, the flat vent behind the toilet is still not code and I agree with your assessment for the changes.
hj
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dwv
My original assessment stands, because I do not consider the IPC a code. I consider it an attempt by the construction industry to degrade plumbing so it is less expensive to install. Sort of like BOCA years ago.
My original assessment stands, because I do not consider the IPC a code. I consider it an attempt by the construction industry to degrade plumbing so it is less expensive to install. Sort of like BOCA years ago.
Also is it still considered a flat vent behind the toilet if it has 1/4" fall and a sweeping 90...
SewerRatz
Illinois Licensed Plumber
Lose the wye you have for the water closet, put a tee on the 3" vent just above the elbow for your water closet. If you do that you will no longer have a flat vent for the water closet.
hj
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Dwv
It is flat because it is horizontal, not because it does not have 1/4" pitch. A 1/16 bend into the toilet combo and another one with a street 1/8 bend in the wall to convert back to vertical would correct it if you want to keep your configuration. And the shower is still not vented, although your code may not require it.
It is flat because it is horizontal, not because it does not have 1/4" pitch. A 1/16 bend into the toilet combo and another one with a street 1/8 bend in the wall to convert back to vertical would correct it if you want to keep your configuration. And the shower is still not vented, although your code may not require it.
Jimbo
Plumber
QUOTE: Also is it still considered a flat vent behind the toilet if it has 1/4" fall and a sweeping 90
The FLAT section of pipe from the combo that the toilet sits on, back to the wall where it turns up.....THAT is the flat vent. The idea is that toilet waste can just casually back up into that section of pipe, and eventually cause blockage. A wet vent provides the air venting to a fixture, but can be horizontal because that section of pipe also carries water waste from a sink or tub, so would always be kept flushed clean.
In a way, you could think of that section of pipe between the sink and the wye where the shower joins the 3" pipe, as wet venting the shower. It is NOT a PROPER wet vent, because it does not actually vent the shower before it joins the main. The shower would probably work ok, it is just not to code. The toilet vent would be a problem. You need to get all this piping a little deeper to make room for the tee you need to vent the toilet.
The FLAT section of pipe from the combo that the toilet sits on, back to the wall where it turns up.....THAT is the flat vent. The idea is that toilet waste can just casually back up into that section of pipe, and eventually cause blockage. A wet vent provides the air venting to a fixture, but can be horizontal because that section of pipe also carries water waste from a sink or tub, so would always be kept flushed clean.
In a way, you could think of that section of pipe between the sink and the wye where the shower joins the 3" pipe, as wet venting the shower. It is NOT a PROPER wet vent, because it does not actually vent the shower before it joins the main. The shower would probably work ok, it is just not to code. The toilet vent would be a problem. You need to get all this piping a little deeper to make room for the tee you need to vent the toilet.
Mattbee24
In the Trades
just for my own info....would it be okay if he got rid of the combo at the toilet and put a 90 in there with a sanitary tee just above the 90? If I understand it right, the vent would still be horizontal, but it would be ok because it is above the drain line. All these stupid code changes are really confusing.
Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
this hack has to chime in here.....
hey the drain lines look not too good,
and you guys can debate the wet venting and
flat vents till you are all blue in the face...
I wont go there..........
Now..... what about the hard copper and dozens of copper
solder joints under that slab???
I have run MILES of slab plumbing in my life
and would never even consider having a solder
joint under the floor....
does that not bother anyone???
shouldent that be run in soft copper and all the
joints be soldered above the floor level
I could not live with that. cause I KNOW better.....
hey the drain lines look not too good,
and you guys can debate the wet venting and
flat vents till you are all blue in the face...
I wont go there..........
Now..... what about the hard copper and dozens of copper
solder joints under that slab???
I have run MILES of slab plumbing in my life
and would never even consider having a solder
joint under the floor....
does that not bother anyone???
shouldent that be run in soft copper and all the
joints be soldered above the floor level
I could not live with that. cause I KNOW better.....
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Gary Swart
In the Trades
With all due respects to the questioner, may I make a suggestion. Hire a plumber to get this project straightened out. Here's why I say this. As you can see by the numerous things the pros on this forum have found to be incorrectly done, drains and vents are the areas that cause most of us DIYers the most problems. It just isn't as simple as gluing pipe together. The kinds of fittings used for different applications, the angle the fittings are installed, location of vents, are just a few of these technical areas. Do one of them wrong, and the inspector will require it to be changed which can be a real problem at times. A professional on site can be a wise investment.
Shacko
Master Plumber-Gas Fitter
Underground Plumbint
Master Plumber Mark: I agree with part of your post, you limit joints under ground, but I have another prob. with his copper work; where I work underground lines have to be brazed, his lines look like they are standard solder joints. The hard copper to me dosen't matter, if it is code where I'm working I use the one that is the easiest for the job.
Master Plumber Mark: I agree with part of your post, you limit joints under ground, but I have another prob. with his copper work; where I work underground lines have to be brazed, his lines look like they are standard solder joints. The hard copper to me dosen't matter, if it is code where I'm working I use the one that is the easiest for the job.
Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
whatever passes in your area
as far as his drain line work goes,
it looks to me the very easy way to fix everything is............
.......wait for it...........wait for it.............
simply cut the shower arm and throw another vent in
either going up the back wall just for the shower
or if this is deep enough in the ground,
simply take it over and up adjaecnt to that huge 3 inch drain for
the lavatory. and tie into it above the flood rim.......
then the whole system would be considered
"way overkilled" at least in my state..
that is my humble advice......
Shako...
at least for me , I was taught that it is wiser and a better job to bring everything up above the slab floor with soft copper, and make your joints at one manifold usually in the mechanical room near the main shut off valve...(in a normal home)
that way their is never "the crying game" down the road
if a joint under the slab were to start to leak....
also I was taught to put armaflex on both hot and cold lines in the concrete for max protection of the copper pipes ...very few do this becasue of the expence, but every slab I did back in the early 80s.. ..about 400 of them,... are still in great shape today..
that is how I would do it in my own home,
in fact my own home was done that way back in the mid 60s.
and I thank the plumber that did the great job he did every day.....
.
Now, if it is ok to braise joints together and they pass
inspection where you are .... and the inspector dont care. OK
I guess with everything else going to hell being slopped in with pex pipe...,
all a plumbing job today has to do is last one year..anyway....
Hell, this guy could have slopped the whole thing out of pex
and did the manifold thing too....
and that is better than having solder joints in the concrete.
Also, .....
do you think this fellow is going to air test his solder joints before he
pours that concrete or just gamble on it????
Master Plumber Mark: I agree with part of your post, you limit joints under ground, but I have another prob. with his copper work; where I work underground lines have to be brazed, his lines look like they are standard solder joints. The hard copper to me dosen't matter, if it is code where I'm working I use the one that is the easiest for the job.
as far as his drain line work goes,
it looks to me the very easy way to fix everything is............
.......wait for it...........wait for it.............
simply cut the shower arm and throw another vent in
either going up the back wall just for the shower
or if this is deep enough in the ground,
simply take it over and up adjaecnt to that huge 3 inch drain for
the lavatory. and tie into it above the flood rim.......
then the whole system would be considered
"way overkilled" at least in my state..
that is my humble advice......
Shako...
at least for me , I was taught that it is wiser and a better job to bring everything up above the slab floor with soft copper, and make your joints at one manifold usually in the mechanical room near the main shut off valve...(in a normal home)
that way their is never "the crying game" down the road
if a joint under the slab were to start to leak....
also I was taught to put armaflex on both hot and cold lines in the concrete for max protection of the copper pipes ...very few do this becasue of the expence, but every slab I did back in the early 80s.. ..about 400 of them,... are still in great shape today..
that is how I would do it in my own home,
in fact my own home was done that way back in the mid 60s.
and I thank the plumber that did the great job he did every day.....
.
Now, if it is ok to braise joints together and they pass
inspection where you are .... and the inspector dont care. OK
I guess with everything else going to hell being slopped in with pex pipe...,
all a plumbing job today has to do is last one year..anyway....
Hell, this guy could have slopped the whole thing out of pex
and did the manifold thing too....
and that is better than having solder joints in the concrete.
Also, .....
do you think this fellow is going to air test his solder joints before he
pours that concrete or just gamble on it????
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Agree with gary...I think it would be well worth your $$$ to have a local plumber who knows slab plumbing to come out and inspect this for you and at least tell you what you need to do in person and then have everything air tested.
When air testing the drains DO NOT use the expansion caps you have on the vent ends now.
Real silver bearing solder is allowed here for underground sweating but your looking at $75.00 / roll.
Marks way of having no joints under the slab is the best...
When air testing the drains DO NOT use the expansion caps you have on the vent ends now.
Real silver bearing solder is allowed here for underground sweating but your looking at $75.00 / roll.
Marks way of having no joints under the slab is the best...
hj
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piping
Here, all underfloor joints have to be flared or brazed, period. Silver bearing solder is still soft solder. If I were consulted on this job, the first thing would be to get the SawZall, and cut it all apart and toss it in the scrap bin. Then redo the DWV and water piping the proper, and most efficient, way. And, as I told a friend after he did his own plumbing, if I were the inspector, I would red tag the system, assuming I could stop laughing long enough to do so. But when places like Home Depot tell customers that plumbing is "So easy a caveman can do it", they believe them and decide anyone can do plumbing if they can glue some fittings together.
Here, all underfloor joints have to be flared or brazed, period. Silver bearing solder is still soft solder. If I were consulted on this job, the first thing would be to get the SawZall, and cut it all apart and toss it in the scrap bin. Then redo the DWV and water piping the proper, and most efficient, way. And, as I told a friend after he did his own plumbing, if I were the inspector, I would red tag the system, assuming I could stop laughing long enough to do so. But when places like Home Depot tell customers that plumbing is "So easy a caveman can do it", they believe them and decide anyone can do plumbing if they can glue some fittings together.
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