pack a gate valve under pressure
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You can repack the stem with the valve all the way open or all the way closed. It will only leak when it is partially open or closed. Usually the packing nut only has to be tightened to stop a leak, however.
You can repack the stem with the valve all the way open or all the way closed. It will only leak when it is partially open or closed. Usually the packing nut only has to be tightened to stop a leak, however.
agattt
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thank you
I close or open it when I go away. It is the house main. While tightening the nut has helped it also makes it harder to open or close. Eventually I want to replace it with a lever ball valve but not eager to spend the $ right now. If I can change the packing with it off then I don't have to get the water turned off at the street.
I close or open it when I go away. It is the house main. While tightening the nut has helped it also makes it harder to open or close. Eventually I want to replace it with a lever ball valve but not eager to spend the $ right now. If I can change the packing with it off then I don't have to get the water turned off at the street.
Ron Kostuik
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Hmmm ... I have a valve that looks like this ... Live re-packing, yes, no ?
Ron Kostuik
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Photo below
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Your link points to a place that is not set up to be public.
Ron Kostuik
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Your uploaded photo works.
Live repacking would refer to changing or increasing the packing while the pipe is pressurized. While some valves can be done that way, there is seldom a reason to find out. Just turn off the water first.
I would think that it would be better to have the stem screwed out (valve open) before you undo the packing nut.
Live repacking would refer to changing or increasing the packing while the pipe is pressurized. While some valves can be done that way, there is seldom a reason to find out. Just turn off the water first.
I would think that it would be better to have the stem screwed out (valve open) before you undo the packing nut.
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Ron Kostuik
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What worries me is that this valve doesn't seem to have the two part construction as compared to the valve described above. I haven't been able to find another valve like mine; the "bonnet" and the valve stem nut seem to be the same. I'm in a townhouse condo complex and this is the main water shutoff valve for the house. I think that turning off the water to the house to replace the valve will be a big deal (half the complex with water off, probably hours for the system to drain etc. etc.) although I'm going to investigate that.
Other that replacing or repacking, I could just let it drip. It's a few ounces a week. As long as I catch these drops so nothing of note gets soaked, is there any issue in just letting the drips continue ?
Other that replacing or repacking, I could just let it drip. It's a few ounces a week. As long as I catch these drops so nothing of note gets soaked, is there any issue in just letting the drips continue ?
I think your worry is justified.
I think the plumber could let you have the pressure back on pretty quickly. The valve could be a compression valve on the copper, so that would not need the pipe completely dry, as it would have to be if soldering.
Even faster would be a Sharkbyte connection.
When replacing the valve, the water could be turned back on to the rest of the complex while the connection downstream of the valve has not been done. I am not a plumber.
If you get a new valve, maybe consider a whole house cartridge filter, with bypass, at the same time. Have you ever seen particles in your aerator screens? That was only the stuff too big to pass through the screen.
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