Broken Flange --- HELP!!!

dereckfl

dereckfl

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I have a problem with the flange, a section is completely broken out. The left side bolt area has broken out completely. I purchased the metal "flange ring" to place over the flange, but realized it would not be mounted/secured/anchored to the floor or anything on the left side and would probably still "rock" from side to side.

The flange itself is glued, there are no bolts anywhere on it and it is flush with the cement underneath, there is no space between.

Not quite sure how to proceed, would be grateful for any insight.
 

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There may be ways to patch this up, but the right way is to put a new flange in. This would almost mandate hiring a plumber who has the tools to cut the old flange out. I would not use a plastic flange.
 
Replace Flange

Hey Gary,

Thanks .. I agree it would be best to replace the entire flange, however I do not have the resources for that and am going to have to work with what I have here.

Can I bolt/anchor the metal flange repair ring to the cement floor? I noticed several holes on the metal repair ring.
 
What you are seeing is the reason pros normally don't use all plastic toilet flanges! The preferred one seems to be one that uses a stainless steel ring.
Yes, you can use a repair ring. Use all of the holes to anchor it down into the floor. You may want to use some silicon between it and the old flange to seal it.
 
Thanks Jim ... yeah I know the plastic ones are crap, it was what was build in the house when it was new. I am not real familiar with setting bolts or screws into cement, you got any suggestions for that? Steps? Materials needed?

Thanks!!!
 
At least a few ways:
  • use lead anchors (a lead sleeve inserted into the hole) and a ss screw through it that wedges things together
  • use plastic anchors (not anywhere near as strong, but proably okay) similar to above
  • use Tapcon screws (these use a pilot hole and special screws/bolts that litereally cut their own threads into the concrete)
All require a hole, the lead anchors the biggest one, the Tapcon the smallest. It's faster with a hammer drill, but for a few, a regular drill (special bit regardless is required) will work. You'll want to use a vacuum to clean out the dust in the hole, or there'll not be any room for the fastener.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the advice, I am going to try to install the "fastner" tomorrow, not sure which material I will use yet, but will see which is going to be the cheapest and the easiest for me. I will go to ACE hardware.

Good looking out on the "vaccum the holes out" idea, I would probably not have thought of that or the silicone seal between the metal "ringer" and the closet flange.


The tips realy help a lot!!! and much appreciated!!!
 
I use the lead sleeves for anchoring things to concrete. I have a hammer/drill that drills 5/16" holes in concrete like it was wood. Tap the sleeves in and then drive a #12 stainless steel screw. They will not pull out unless you use a crow bar and then you have to work at it. You can rent a hammer/drill quite reasonably and the lead sleeves are not really expensive. Stainless steel screws are expensive if you're buy 1000 of them, but half a dozen shouldn't bankrupt you. Going cheaper with plastic sleeves would not be wise in my opinion.
 
Tapcons

I was going to try and use the Tapcons, what do you think of those? They seemed a little easier and appeared that they might be a good solid choice?
 
Personally, I've had good luck with them. If you don't drill the hole deep enough or clean it out, you can snap them off (keep in mind, they're hard, and they're cutting their own threads into the concrete - you must use their drill bit to get the proper size). They use a smaller hole, so drill faster, but the anchor itself isn't as corrosion proof as SS. If the toilet is installed properly, the bolts should be embedded in the wax seal, and shouldn't get wet, but the extra insurance of SS (or brass, but it's softer) is good. The older the concrete and the more aggragate in it, the harder it will be to drill.
 
Do you realize that to use Tapcons you must drill holes in the concrete? An ordinary drill and bit will not work well at all in concrete. If the hole is not the correct size and depth, the Tapcon will not screw in. I have tried them and found them difficult to use. The lead sleeves require a hole also, but are simpler to use. I realize you are trying to make this repair on the ultra cheap, but there are some expenses you will have to pay for. Rent a rotary hammer/drill with the appropriate size bit for the job. The rest of the materials are not costly.
 
Drill and Bit

I've got a pretty heavy duty 1/2 drill and I was going to invest in a concrete bit and go for it ... do you not think that will work? I know a hammer drill would be better, but there are only 6 holes I need to do. This is turning out to be a bit of a headache .. hahaha
 
A regular drill will work for those holes. Smaller hole will be easier. A hammer drill should be in your plans for a replacement, when yours finally dies, as drilling into concrete may not be a frequent thing, it really works better. Much like drilling into hardwood with a hammer drill into concrete.

You need to buy Tapcon's drill to use their fasteners, but you'd need a carbide bit for the lead or plastic anchors as well, just a bigger one!
 
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