Gerber tub drain questions

bobbyt

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #1

Hi,

I've just installed the brass Gerber tub drain. Much better than the flimsy PVC variety.

I had trouble getting the slip-joint connection from the drain into the tee to stop leaking. I tightened it up and it stopped, but I had to tighten it a lot more than I expected. How tight do you make these?

Also, do you put pipe dope on the drain basket threads?

Thanks in advance,
Bob

 

NHmaster

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #2

Tight enough that is doesn't leak.

 

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Gary Swart

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #3

Don't use anything on slip joint threads. This holds for brass or PVC. Usually hand tight is sufficient for tightening, but sometimes and extra 1/4 turn is needed. You should never really have cinch it up like it was a pressurized water line.

 

bobbyt

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #4

Gary Swart said:

Usually hand tight is sufficient for tightening, but sometimes and extra 1/4 turn is needed. You should never really have cinch it up like it was a pressurized water line.

Click to expand...

I wonder what's wrong then. Hand tight wouldn't have come close to sealing this joint. The pipe was well aligned in the tee. I wonder if the square rubber gasket was too hard. Would I have been better off with a tapered plastic washer?

Any thoughts on pipe dope on the drain basket threads?

Thanks again,
Bob

 

Gary Swart

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #5

Probably the tapered plastic. Never use pipe dope or tape on a P trap.

 

Redwood

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #6

The thing about slip joints is having everything align perfectly without any stress on any of the joints. If you are fighting misalignments the leaks can be hard to stop and they will be back.

 

bobbyt

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• Aug 16, 2009

• #7

Thanks for the info on alignment. I'll check it out again more carefully.

I'm using incorrect terminology here. I know not to put pipe dope on the p-trap. What I mean is on the threads of the trip shoe plug into the drain shoe. I'm thinking I need sealant here since it's just bare threads.