Please help! yesterday I was watering out by the well and everything was working fine, except I could here it clicking every minute or so. This morning I have no water. My voltage tester shows power on all post of the grey switch, but I don't here any clicking or anything. It is a 1.5 horse sub pump with a Frankiln sticker on the box. What can I try next?
Clicking yesterday, today nothing?
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Gary Slusser
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Are the points closed? Do you have power at the well?
You have a control box, so you'll have to trouble shoot it, and first the cable to the well and pump, the motor's windings, check for shorts etc..
http://www.franklin-electric.com/business/WaterSystems/service/AIM/page-43.aspx
You have a control box, so you'll have to trouble shoot it, and first the cable to the well and pump, the motor's windings, check for shorts etc..
http://www.franklin-electric.com/business/WaterSystems/service/AIM/page-43.aspx
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Did you push the red reset buttons under the control box (Franklin box)?
Gary Slusser
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Having to push a reset button says there was an electrical problem of some kind. I've never seen a control box with a reset button... But then most folks where I'm from use 2 wire pumps.
I'd check out the pump electrically to make sure there isn't something wrong that you could catch before the reset button doesn't 'fix' a no water problem in the future. I'd call it preventative maintenance, or good planning.
I'd check out the pump electrically to make sure there isn't something wrong that you could catch before the reset button doesn't 'fix' a no water problem in the future. I'd call it preventative maintenance, or good planning.
The clicking you are hearing is the pump cycling on and off. This is probably what caused the overload to trip and will also is what usually destroys pumps. A Cycle Stop Valve will stop the pump from cycling and make you pump system last much longer.
A CSV will work with any size tank. But when that one goes bad, you can replace it with as small as the 4.4 gallon tank in the picture above.
Gary Slusser
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You have to measure the air pressure with no water in the tank. If you measure it without shutting off the pump and depressurizing the system, you measure water pressure. So your water pressure gauge should read the same pressure as the air pressure gauge until you drain the tank; then you measure only air pressure.
You should have 39-38 psi air pressure with no water in the tank.
You should have 39-38 psi air pressure with no water in the tank.
Adding 4 or 5 PSI more air is not going to make much difference. The clicking is caused by your pump producing more water than you are using. If you turn on enough faucets, the clicking will stop because the pump will run continuously. You either have to use this much water EVERY TIME you run water or, use a Cycle Stop Valve. The CSV will make the pump produce only the amount you are using, so the cycling or "clicking" will stop and the pump will last much longer.
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Gary Slusser
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No but it will help your tank to last longer.
I would probably prefer the CSV1Z as in the picture above for your pump. However the CSV1W, or the plastic valve CSV1, will also work.
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But if the points don't close, the pump doesn't run, or run on 230v, so that doesn't cause short cycling of a pump.
Much more likely is that the air pressure in the tank is way low or the bladder is broken or there's not enough air in a galvanized no bladder type tank. Or the pump is too large for the system. The tank air pressure should be checked with no water in the tank.
Much more likely is that the air pressure in the tank is way low or the bladder is broken or there's not enough air in a galvanized no bladder type tank. Or the pump is too large for the system. The tank air pressure should be checked with no water in the tank.
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