View Full Version : leaking around Lock nut where water goes into toilet tank

08-03-2005, 11:53 AM
I need help. There are drops of water around the black Lock nut and I don't know how it gets there.
I thought the tank itself is leaking around the Lock nut, so I tested having
full water in the tank and the water pipe removed from the tank overnight.
Then it is not wet and there are no drops of water around the Lock nut.

It only happenes when I put the water pipe (hose) connect to the toilet tank.
Water is not comming from the above, then how it gets up?
Does anybody have any idea?
Please help me.

from a desperate mom

08-05-2005, 03:40 PM
If the leaking nut is the supply connection to the fill valve, it may need to be connected better.

If it's a solid riser, then the top nut is tightened first, and the lower compression end last.

If you are using a flexible line, then the order is reversed.
The end near the stop is installed first, then the top where it connects to the toilet fill valve.

Do not use Teflon tape or pipe sealant on these threads. They will only cause leaks.

One easy fix would be to replace the supply with a new one.

08-05-2005, 07:57 PM
The "'shank" of the fill valve could have a small crack in it, especially if it is an old valve. If it is a newer valve then the rubber washer could be in the wrong place, or the supply pipe could have a crack in it.

08-07-2005, 11:16 PM
I believe the lock nut is tightened alright because it won't move.
But somehow there is tiny gap between the china and lock nut.
So, to replace the lock nut and fill valve shank, what should I do?
Do I need to replace the whole tank which is western clinton 832 toilet
or should I try to change fill valve set? -- which I think will be a big hassle.
Is there any way to fill up the gap with something?

thank you again.

08-08-2005, 05:11 AM
At this point I think you should replace the fill valve with a fluidmaster and get a new supply, I have great luck with stainless steel braided ones. Also, too remove the old fill valve just cut the nut off with a hack saw or just the blade if room is tight.

08-08-2005, 06:40 AM
We cannot tell what the problem really is, but if the shank is "tight" which means it is compressing the washer inside the tank, it does not matter if it is touching the porcelain all around the face of the nut. If the nut is actually not touching the china anywhere, then it cannot be tight even if the valve does not move.