Sparodic water delivery, submersible

New to this house so we weren't here when the pump was installed. The receipts state it is .75 hp set at 200 ft, replaced 09/2004. The installation and wiring job is "rough". The well is low yield and can be run temporarily dry. The problem is sporadic and cannot be duplicated reliably. I do not know depth to water, pump claimed to be set at 200'.

Many times the pressure switch contacts make and pump runs but no water is delivered, even tested open line direct from the pump. The sure remedy for this is to manually open, or bump, the contacts on the pressure switch or open and close the circut at the fuse box in the pump house, and all is good.

Here's the drill. Low water pressure in house, walk out to pump house, pressure gauge reading low 20 to 30 lbs, pump running but not building pressure, remove plastic cover to pressure switch and carefully use plastic cover to open and close points, things are good. Pressure builds and points open. Sometimes it cycles normally but the make and break drill always works. Two wires to the pump house (fuse box) reliable 240 volts to switch.

Shut the power off to the switch. Holding the switch points open, use like a fingernail file to clean/rough up all 4 sets of points. Check all 4 screws and the ground wire connection for tightness. You could take the wires off and clean the ends of them and then tighten the screws on them.

Then see how that goes. If you have the same problem clean any/all wire connections out at the well. If the problem persists, then do ohms and other electrical tests.

http://www.franklin-electric.com/business/WaterSystems/service/AIM/page-43.aspx

Closed relay contacts at rated current should read less than 30 mV if good, over 100 mV if bad.

All connections are cleaned and tightened, pressure switch is new (4 Months) problem persists. Have yet to do electrical testing down hole. Could this possibly be the pump check valve sticking closed intermittantly? Thanks for your help and replies.
B.C.

Do you have pump protection??? Upper

If you have 20-30 psi on the gauge and no water, the gauge is bad, or there is a blockage between the gauge and the open faucet etc.. Do you have any filters, a softener etc. that could be blocked? A gate valve? A loose washer in a stop valve?

Otherwise the pump could be locking up, or something sucked up against the inlet screen but then, there would be 0 pressure on a good gauge. Could be a bad check valve. Could be the thermal overload opening but the psi again and it wouldn't run until the motor cooled enough and you get it to run by fooling with the points or breaker. I say there is a loose/dirty connection, and I'd make sure of that before doing much else.

Pump protection is out of the circut. Gauge will go to zero if I don't attend to the low pressure by "bumping the contacts. No filters, softeners, etc. Ball valve only. The pump will be running with no water delivery. I can hear it run, feel it run, and measure the amps that are within specs. The only thing that will get me water and it is guaranteed every time is to break and make, either at the circut breaker or at the points.
Thanks for your interest and help.
Bob