Pressure equalization?

I have a ranch home and well water. The pump is set up to run normal high low pressures near the bladder. Here is my question. Is there something that I can add to avoid the high low cycling of the pump. I'd like to be able to have even out the pressures. One problem is when I water outside and the pressure falls to the low side... the sprikler head just sits there and won't oscillate until the pressure comes back up again. Showering can be a pain too. Up/down pressure. Great when it's up lousy when it's down and waiting for it to come again.

I know I should be happy I have water. However, this is what makes America great. One can always have something better if you work at it.

It sounds as if your captive air pressure in the pressure tank may not be correct for your pressure settings and... that you have the pressure switch set on the low side; maybe 20/40. But then it also sounds as if you have a jet pump.

Run water unti lthe pump comes on, and shut of the water. Note the setting the pump came on at and again when it shuts off. Then check the air pressure in the tank to be 1-2 psi less than the reading the pump came on at. If you have 20/40, I suggest 30/50 or maybe 40/60 since you have the sprinkler(s). Id time them to come on when the family isnt' suign water. Like 3AM to 5AM so a softener would still get all the water it wanted without the sprinklers running.

To check the air pressure.... You shut off the water to the house past the tank. Shut off the power to the pump. Drain the water out of the tank, yes all of it. Check the air pressure in the tank and adjust it to 1-2 lbs less than the cut-in (turn it on) pressure switch setting. I.E for 30/50 you use 29-28 psi with no water in the tank.

Then shut the drain valve on the tank. Turn on the power to the pump. If you remove the switch cover and watch the points close/open; caution, there's 240 volts in there.

If you check air pressure when the tank has water pressure in it, you read the WATER pressure, not the captive air precharge air pressure. If you adjust the air while there is water at zero pressure on the guage, you don't get the right volume of air in the tank.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

Water flow

Maybe your well can't keep up. You need a pressure differential. Thats what the pressure switch is for.

water pressure

There is nothing wrong with the way it is working, it's been that way for ten years. But, I want even presure all the time, like the amount of pressure when the pump shuts off. That pressure only stays on for a short time while showering. Then the pump kicks in and slowly builds up again until it reaches the high end and then we start all over again. It's a pain when watering outside and showering inside etc. I seen advertisments for a yellow pump with a small holding tank on it and it says that when the water begins to flow the pump kicks in so you always have high pressure. I sounds to good to be true.

I'm not a pro, but what about putting in just a larger pressure tank? More water between cycles. Also, ensure that your tank has the proper static pressure. It could be too low. Watch your pressure gauge. It should rise linearly to the high cut off point. If it goes up then jumps, the bladder could be collapsing entirely - since water doesn't compress, the pressure will jump rather than just keep compressing the air. This means that your tank holds less water under pressure than it was designed for.

jadnashua said:

I'm not a pro, but what about putting in just a larger pressure tank? More water between cycles. Also, ensure that your tank has the proper static pressure. It could be too low. Watch your pressure gauge. It should rise linearly to the high cut off point. If it goes up then jumps, the bladder could be collapsing entirely - since water doesn't compress, the pressure will jump rather than just keep compressing the air. This means that your tank holds less water under pressure than it was designed for.

Click to expand...

Interesting thought. I wonder if two bladder tanks or three wouldn't work. They are fairly cheap. This is the device that I saw in the WEB... 115 Volt Low Water Pressure Booster System (¾ Horsepower) Adds 52 PSI It's yellow probably a trade mark of the product and is sellling for around $500 plus. I don't want to blow the joints off of my copper pipes by adding 52 plus the deep well pump. probably needs a regulator too.

Bill, more storage under pressure isn't going to get you a constant pressure.

Your pump creates the pressure in the pressure tank. The tank is only used to allow the pump to shut off instead of running constantly while you use water. The pump is sized to be able to allow you to use water AND refill the tank. The tank has an exact amount of air in it and the air is under a certain pressure. When the pump is turned on initially as you install a pressure tank, the water compresses the air causing compressed air. The compressed air pushes water out of the tank to the fixtures while the pump is off. When the pressure falls to the cut-in pressure switch setting, then the pump comes on and refills the tank compressing the air to full pressure again. The pump switch has a 20 lb minimum pressure differential, I.E. 30/50 psi. You need 29-28 psi air pressure in the tank with no water in the tank to have the proper volume of air at the proper psi for your system. If the air pressure is not correct, the pressure difference is much more noticeable from pump off to on again and until the pressure recovers to the high end of the range.

Test the air pressure and then adjust it to the proper pressure for your pressure switch settings if needed. THEN if you still don't have satisfaction, buy a Cycle Stop Valve or constant pressure submersible pump. Or the Davey or other type booster pump BUT, you can't simply install a Davey on your system without proper supply storage to the Davey; that would be an atmospheric (non pressurized) storage tank. Otherwise the Davey etc. can want more water than the present system can provide.

Gary
Quality Water Associates