Pump kaput?

jimbag7

jimbag7

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My well pump is not working. It has stopped pumping a couple of times in the past few weeks but has always started after fiddling with the pressure switch. This time it won't start. A 3 wire 1/2 HP submersible of unknown manufacture (Franklin Electric controller if thats a clue) and about 13 years old. Contacts in pressure switch are clean, there is voltage on both phases, when pressure switch is held with contacts closed there is current (approx 5.3 amps) through the black and yellow wires, current flashes in red wire when first switched on but drops instantly, too quick to read, I assume that is the capacitor discharge. As I understand the controller, all seems normal. Is there a way to test the capacitor and or relay. I want to be sure of the problem before I spend a frightening amount of money by calling a service person. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Me again...is it possible that my capacitor isn't doing enough of what it does to start the pump motor and needs to be replaced? Or am I looking at a new pump? Please help!!! I need to take a shower and a poo!
 
OK...here's what we now, having read a lot of threads, voltage to control box is correct, current leaving box on yellow and black wires is within spec. impedence is a little low considering the roughly 300 ft of wire between the box and the pump. There is a blip of current on the red(starter) wire when pressure swith first makes connection and a spark at all 4 contact points within the pressure switch when contact is broken so I'm thinking the controller is all good. BUT...the best before date on the pump and motor may have passed, I've not changed it in the 9 years I've been here and well was drilled in 96 so they are likely that old as well.
Any suggestions? Does this sound like a pump?
 
Thats what I've come to think. The well guy who's on his way over feels the same and for $80 service call plus $120/hr he's gonna prove it to me. I think I could do it myself, having read all of the wonderfull posts on here, but I can't even see the pitless adaptor, water is about 3 feet below grade I've never even seen it done and I haven't got a helper to blame when the stupid thing breaks off and falls wedging itself in the casing thus costing me $20,000 for a new well.(this one was $18,500 in 96) Thanks to you for the reply and to all of the other good people who've read of my plight and pondered a solution. Much appreciated. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Alright...the well guys came! So my 180 ft well with quality pump is not exactly as it was representedwhen I bought the house. Turned out to be a mere 45 ft with the cheapest most unreliable pump money can buy. They lifted it out retaped the wires to the pipe, changed 2 fittings from PVC to brass, ran it with the adaptor hanging outside of the casing. Lots of pressure so they put it back in and it works...go figure. So $250 later I still don't know what caused the problem. But it works. I'll be selling this house soon anyways so ishould it go again I'll pull it myself and install a new pump and you guessed it, I'll be buying the cheapest most unreliable pump money can buy. Thanks again. Great site!
 
Yep, you sure know your stuff. So the guy was right about it's reputation. Installed in 96 and surprised it's lasted this long. Were it not for the fact that I live alone the demand would have killed it before now.
 
They didn't really fix anything but they did drain and repressurize the tank, it's waterlogged to some degree and apparently undersized. The fittings may have been leaking but they changed them without really testing them so I don't know. I've located a brand new pump of the same specs, I have to go pick it up but it's free and I believe it's a jaccuzzi. Dunno if it's a good one but the price is right and it'll surely last as long as I'll need it.
 
They actually changed PVC fittings to brass, inspected the pipe unravelled the wires, replaced the O ring on the pitless adaptor, tested the pessure at the top of the pipe, drained and pressurized the tank and recommended I get a new pressure tank and pump. I'm guessing that the pump was running but wouldn't build pressure(waterlogged pressure tank) enough to run automatically. I didn't think to open a faucet to see if the water was actually coming out whilst I held the switch in the on position. I assumed I would hear it in the pipe just as I always have. The sound I was expecting to hear was likely the pressure building in the tank. Knowing what I now know will be a huge help should another such problem arise. I hope to be on a well system for a long time, just not this one.
 
jimbag7 said:
Is there a way to test the capacitor and or relay.
Click to expand...
Charge the cap. to 9v with a 9v batt. Discharge through a 1 megohm resistor. When the voltage reaches 37% of initial value, the time in seconds is the value in uF.

Closed relay contacts at rated current that are good should read less than 30 mV, with bad coming in at more than 100 mV.
 
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