Suggested plumbing at irrigation pump in barn

Hello,

I recently purchased a home with a dug well. It's got 8' of lift and 90' of horizontal run to the pump in the barn. 1" black supply line.

The jet pump was garbage. Looking for better long term setup, but while I'm saving to afford that, I found a used Goulds 3695 irrigation pump. It's an oldie, but seems rock solid.

Goal 1: drop this pump in place of the old pump. Output will go to hose faucets on the barn for watering the lawn, washing the car, etc.

Goal 2: Once this in place, I want to test the output of the well before investing in the big picture.

My questions:

1. The old unit has a tiny tank on it. Should I spend $230 at Home Depot on a Flotec 35 gallon tank?

2. Check valves. I had blown through the foot valve and assumed I should not be able to. I therefore assumed that it was leaking. Since HD didn't have any, I installed a big brass check valve just above the foot valve. I suspect this may be too much work for the pump to open. I also got a new foot valve and I can blow through that in the same way, so I think that must be normal. I can't blow a lot, just a little.

3. Priming. Assuming I remove the additional check at the foot valve and put it near the pump in the barn, how could I prime the 90' of input pipe? That's really got me confused. The old system had a hose quick-connect that I could hook the house hose to, in order to fill the input pipe. I assumed I should still do this, but don't see how I could with a check valve in the barn. Unless I put it upstream from the check and then fill the hose with that and the pump with a bucket through a priming plug on the pump.

3. I've had a hard time finding diagrams of recommended plumbing at the pump. I'd love to find examples showing a check valve, shutoffs, a priming point, the tank, a pressure guage, etc.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Irrigation pumps are not to be used with pressure switches and tanks. You don't need the check valve at the pump. Just a footvalve. I would move the pump to the well and push the water through the 90' of pipe instead of trying to pull it.

Thank you. SO I'll leave the tank out.

To move the pump - which I am considering - is a bunch of work. I am planning to put a pump at the well eventually, which will coincide with digging up the 1" pipe and replacing it it with 1 1/2. I'll also run the wiring at that time.

I've thought about running some temp conduit out there this weekend. Still teetering on that. It's a bit daunting, as I'd have to figure out the proper guage and type of conduit and then I'd have conduit running across my lawn, which would be unpleasant and most likely invoke a visit from a city worker.

Got it working!

Thanks again for the help. I skipped the whole tank bit, which saved me a few hundred $ and that much more work. My old tank was consumer grade garbage.

I installed a hose faucet on the output side so I could prime the system. It came right up and pumped immediately. No hesitation. I skipped the check valve at the pump, and used 45 degree elbows to handle the elevation change from the pipe in the floor to the input of the pump, thinking they'd be less drag than 90 degree. Probably doesn't matter, but it made me feel like I was being smart.

I'll post the results of my unscientific well capacity test in a seperate message.