Old house waste/sewer line....

The house was built in around 1866 +/-, unsure of the plumbing date(s). The issue at hand is a 4" horizontal line in the basement, and a short vertical section leading into that horizontal bit in the basement. The vertical bit involved services at least a 2nd floor toilet, maybe a sink there too. The 4" pipe is good ol' Krupp of unknown vintage, and the horizontal run has a leak midway and a crack at one end where it 90's down into the 4" going to the street. The vertical run that feeds into it also has a crack in it where it makes a weird "S-bend" at the wall/basement ceiling/1st floor in order to line up with the horizontal run. This, of course, was done to have it line up properly with the horizontal length. Cracks likely the result of some settling, and/or making the bend in 'tension,' that is--forcing the original connection a bit.

What I want to do is:

Only replace what is compromised with PVC--I do NOT want to add extra lines/drains/fixtures.

I can get access to a bit of the vertical as it makes it's "S" through the joists in the basement, and believe I can access the straight section by removing a panel in the room above. So ideally would cut this vertical section say midway in the room above the basement, join with a metal band clamp the new PVC length with the remaining CI going up, and replace all needed in basement with PVC.

Questions:

Will cutting the vertical CI on the first floor bring down the vertical section from above, or is the vertical section in this instance (non-vent stack) usually sufficiently supported in the joists for the 2nd floor to prevent downward movement? Or, should I figure something out with some sort of riser clamp?

Really appreciate any help as I want to get this sorted out....

The diagram below (cribbed from another poster), adequately reflects the type of setup in my house (fresh air vent in the basement wall etc), except for that this toilet doesn't drain to the vent stack:

With that many cracks I suspect the entire length is in doubtfull condition.
Many codes do not allow PVC in between cast iron like you propose. Check with your local building inspection office.

Its really just cracked at one end of the horizontal section. In the midpoint of the horizontal section there is a slight periodic drip, I Imagine thru either corrosion or horizontal hub joint--so that's why I want to replace the whole horizontal. I was thinking of taking some of the vertical up to the first floor just to make an easier joint between the vertical section and the new PVC horizontal section.

Not too sure what/how to replace the whole section down from the toilet (which I just refitted and refurbished....)

drain

That red line as the toilet drain makes no sense, but then we cannot "see" it all the way up to its connection to the "vent" which is where it is supposed to go.

The vertical stack could drop some if you cut it...you really want to support it well.

There is good reason to not put pvc between CI higher up...the stuff just weighs a bunch! It can bend and distort or split pvc.

hj said:

That red line as the toilet drain makes no sense, but then we cannot "see" it all the way up to its connection to the "vent" which is where it is supposed to go.

Click to expand...

On second thought...actually, just got back from looking up into the underside of one section of the roof--looks like the vent comes up that wall, then for some reason follows the roofline toward the center of the house on the other side of a gable, and vents there; instead of going straight up and thru the roof near the wall. Kind of confusing when looking from the outside. Plus, there's another stack that goes up from the center starting in the basement and way up in a space in the center of the house. Not sure where that one goes, may vent as well, can't see well in the center of that part of the roof because there are a couple gables and its in the center of the house. This may/not be another vent stack, and drain the other fixtures in another bathroom? Anyhow, it looks like that one I was looking into is a vent that the one toilet drains into. So now the question is, how to deal with it? It figures the problem is at the bottom.... How is that repaired? I take it either with a new section of CI, or with the whole stack removed and replaced with PVC?

I think you are getting into something that is way beyond your qualifications to attempt. Not only will you likely end up with a mess, you very possibly could be seriously injured trying to deal with cast iron. What you are considering is way, way past a DIY project.

I came to that conclusion last night. Is it possible for a knowledgeable person to replace a vertical section of CI with a new length of vertical CI? In any event, what would be the range of costs to deal with this problem with the limited information given?

Thanks again

This is a frequently asked question on this forum. Unfortunately, it is one that really can not be answered for at least a couple of reasons. First, to make even a ballpark estimation requires one to be on site. Second, local labor cost vary widely from place to place. The stock answer is usually something like this. Call local plumbing contractors and get at least three estimates. Make sure each estimate is for the same work you want done. Don't necessarily accept the lowest bid, and keep in mind some companies may not really want the job so will give you a very high bid. There are other considerations that may be important as well, but you should get the idea.

CI (at least used to be) sold as hubless and hub type pipe. Replacing bits in the middle with hub type pipe may be impossible since you have to raise bits to then lower into the hub, but hubless where the pieces are connected with no-hub reinforced couplings is doable. CI is quieter, and people that have lived with it and then changed to PVC are likely to notice.

Jim is absolutely correct about the CI. However, this is still not a DIY job for the inexperienced and/or individual. There are still many pitfalls that you may encounter along the way and, screw up any of them, and this will not pass inspection.

Decided long ago not to get on the DIY train for this one--not sure that train even stops at this station.... With my follow-up I was just curious with respect to range of options going forward:

1. Replace whole stack

2. Replace buggered section with replacement CI using riser clamps etc where appropriate...etc

Cost question is of course way speculative, but I wasn't asking for an actual quote.... Costs assuming average labor rates, average time to replace and material costs (which are going to be the the least of my worries). In the basement: install necessary clamp, remove 90 degree elbow to horizontal and another 90 degree to straight down, replace 10 ft horizontal, and another 90 degree down to exit pipe. Make fast, then break 4 connections and make 4 connections. Access is good.

Very much appreciate the guidance and info on this forum!

Decided long ago not to get on the DIY train for this one--not sure that train even stops at this station.... With my follow-up I was just curious with respect to range of options going forward:

1. Replace whole stack

2. Replace buggered section with replacement CI using riser clamps etc where appropriate...etc

Cost question is of course way speculative, but I wasn't asking for an actual quote.... Costs assuming average labor rates, average time to replace and material costs (which are going to be the the least of my worries). In the basement: install necessary clamp, remove 90 degree elbow to horizontal and another 90 degree to straight down, replace 10 ft horizontal, and another 90 degree down to exit pipe. Essentially, make fast, then break 4 connections and make 4 connections. Access is good.

Very much appreciate the guidance and info on this forum!