Sweating threaded connections, Moen mixing valve.

[hhcibtpaun]

So, after I sweated in my moen mixing valve I read the threads related to sweating the threaded connections instead of using pipe dope or tape.

Well, after working on putting in the pipes for the shower and tub spout in, my supply are now leaking at the threaded connections.

The drywall guy is coming Monday, so I am now up against a wall. I can cut the pipes going into the mixing valve and redo the threaded connections. The concern I have sweating the valve, is it may damage any rubber items inside. The valve body is brass. Can I disassemble the valve before sweating the threaded connection? If I do not disassemble am I looking for trouble?

Is there any kind of heavy duty thread sealant I can use instead? What about epoxy? I do not care if it is a permanent bond. I figure epoxy or something like it may be the best solution

Finally, cutting the pipes that go into the valve is easy, getting them reassmebled is another problem. The vertical pipes that supply the valve continue past the valve to feed other fixtures, so they are captured pretty good. I do not have much wiggle room. I thought of filing the stop out of the 1/2" connecting sleeve, but they are a pretty tight fit. Are there any tricks or fancy connectors that work good when you do not have much wiggle room?

TIA...Mike

[Terry]

If you solder the Moen valve, take out the cartridge first.
Heat can ruin the plastic and rubber.

Any pipe sealant should work. If too much heat is there, it can harm the components of it though.

That's why we like to solder whenever possible.
You can get "repair" couplings without the stops.
They will slid back and forth until they are soldered.

If they males adapters are in tight, they should be good though.
If you were to cut it, and just snug them up real good, and then use a repair coupling, you may be fine.
I torque those things pretty good.

[hhcibtpaun]

Terry,

Thanks for the reply. I will have to see if I can find the repair couplings at home depot tomorrow. I assume the plumbing supply place will be closed.

I had everything in pretty tight. I may see if I can get the moen cartridge out, then sweat it. The problem is where I would making the repair is close to the threaded (male coupling)...So maybe the heat is causing problems.

Although it was holding tight for two weeks or so. Only after I was tightening up the feeds for the tub spout and shower today did i get the leak. I assume I aggravated something.

While at home depot I picked up a tube of Rectorseal 5...Not sure if it is any different than anything else.

I would love to just tighten everything up...If I go that route I assume I do not have the brak the connection and add new sealant or should I. Once I cut the pipes I can pull the whole thing out and essentially start over. The key will be if I can find the repair couplings at home depot or lowes.

Again, thanks for the quick reply.

[kingsotall]

This is the one I like with Teflon tape on the threads first.

http://www.rectorseal2.com/files/213/tplus2.jpg

Belt n' suspenders all day long baby!!!!!!!

[Redwood]

Yep...
Only I use the bullet proof stuff...

http://www.herchem.com/products/images/Megaloc.jpg

[SewerRatz]

Here is the stuff I like to use. Just do not get it on your hands.
http://www.rectorseal2.com/files/214/trublu.jpg

[hhcibtpaun]

I actually have some of the T2-Rector seal too.

So, what is the best way. Sweat the threads, pipe sealant or pipe sealant and tape?

I can do then all, since the valve will be out and I can remove the moen cartridge.

Thanks...Mike

[hj]

The Moen valve probably has male threads and you used female adapters. If so, the copper tubing can be inserted and soldered DIRECTLY into the valve without using adapters.

[hhcibtpaun]

The Moen valve has female threads. I got the cartridge out so now I just need to decide on whether or not to sweat...I assume the solder will flow into the threads.

Do I re-insert the mixing valve with plumbers grease?

Thanks...Mike

[kingsotall]

Kevlar infused¿! I want some...NO! I need me some of that!!! :cool:

[Redwood]

The Moen valve has female threads. I got the cartridge out so now I just need to decide on whether or not to sweat...I assume the solder will flow into the threads.

Do I re-insert the mixing valve with plumbers grease?

Thanks...Mike

No Grease!

You would either wrap the threads with teflon tape then apply paste over it and thread them in tight, or, clean the copper and brass threads with a wire fitting brush, apply flux then solder the threads. Either method is okay but they may not be combined...

[Redwood]

Kevlar infused¿! I want some...NO! I need me some of that!!! :cool:

It is bullet proof!:D

[hhcibtpaun]

No Grease!

You would either wrap the threads with teflon tape then apply paste over it and thread them in tight, or, clean the copper and brass threads with a wire fitting brush, apply flux then solder the threads. Either method is okay but they may not be combined...

I meant the cartridge...sorry....i assume the cartridge could use some grease.

Thanks...Mike

[Redwood]

Yes a silicone grease should be used.
Not petrolium based.

[hhcibtpaun]

Cool. Thanks everyone. I got everything back together, and things are looking good now. I ended up wrapping the threads a few times, then using the Rectorseal T plus 2.

Thanks again everyone.

Mike

[hj]

But not necessarily Teflon bullet proof.