Ok to put joint behind drywall?

[MoreDakka]

Ok, I am definitely no plumber however we are finishing our basement and moving the roughed in plumbing that was for the washer. I picked up one of those nice recessed plumbing boxes however the plastic water pipe (ipex? or flex pipe?) for hot/cold isn't long enough to bend under the unit and into the valve that came with the unit. My buddy says move the valve to the top of the recessed box and attach it with no extra joints but I like things pretty can I put a 90 on the ipex and then another 90 on the recessed box to connect them together? Or another thing I was thinking is that host type that is usually under a sink (metal net jackets on it). Could I join the ipex to that host type then onto the recessed unit?

I'm sorry I don't know the pipe names...would make everything a lot easier to explain.

Thanks for your time.

[seaofnames]

Of course its ok to use 90's, but it reduces the volume a bit. Not a huge concern for a washer.

Can you relocate the box at all? to the left or right? up or down just enough to make it come in from the bottom?

[MoreDakka]

Unfortunately no, here is an image of what I'm working with. I would have to put it up another 10" to get enough length from that hose.

http://e-henry.ca/images/recessedunit.JPG

[kingsotall]

What's not pretty about flipping the box upside down¿ Seems to be the only way to make it work.

[iminaquagmire]

Just punch out the knockouts in the top of the box. That's what they're there for.

[FloridaOrange]

What's not pretty about flipping the box upside down¿ Seems to be the only way to make it work.


Just punch out the knockouts in the top of the box. That's what they're there for.

Either of the above comments seem very reasonable.

[cwhyu2]

Move the faucet to top of the box.

[kingsotall]

Oh yeah the lip for the drain needs to stay where it's at.

[MoreDakka]

Ha, well my buddy seems to have a lot of people agreeing with him ;-) I just like leaving the unit the way it was built. But if the best way to deal with this is to run the pipes through the top then that's what I'll have to do.

Thanks.

[kingsotall]

It was built to have the option of mounting the supply connections either way.

[Redwood]

I like these a lot....

Sioux Chief OX Box WMV. (http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/194/Ox%20Box.wmv)

A lot of thought went into that product!

[Terry]

Looks like Uponor ( Wirsbo ) piping.

You can throw on some couplings and extend the tubing too.

[hj]

As long as the bottom of the box does not already have the holes punched in it, I would relocate the valves to the top. That way there are no openings in the bottom other than the drain line so there is no way for water to get into the wall in case of a valve or hose leak.

[cwhyu2]

As long as the bottom of the box does not already have the holes punched in it, I would relocate the valves to the top. That way there are no openings in the bottom other than the drain line so there is no way for water to get into the wall in case of a valve or hose leak.

Man that totally slipped my mind.They come assembled and as I can think of
a way to plug the holes it may not be pretty.

[jadnashua]

As Terry indicated, what may be the easiest is to just extend the lines some. Some sharkbite connectors would let you do it without having to buy or rent the expansion tool. If you make the lines long enough, you could just loop them below then back up to the valves. Keep in mind, you don't want a lot of sideways pressure on the Sharkbite connector, so watch how you loop things.

If the shutoffs in the box are compression, make sure you use the SS insert, or the connection will fail.

The only difference I see in a typical compression valve is those spec'ed for pex come with the special sleeve to reinforce the tubing when compressing the ferrule and nut onto the valve.

[kingsotall]

I think if its the stage thats it's at as shown in the pic the OP doesn't need to be throwing sharkbites in the mix. Someone had the ability to work with Wirsbo. Finish it up with Wirsbo.