View Full Version : Toto Drake tank/bowl movement?
07-03-2005, 01:43 PM
Having just installed our first toto - I have to wonder - why can't the tank be tightened to eliminate movement? The sponge type seal seems to be too big and if we try and tighten anymore the china will, I'm sure, break....
Is everyone leaving them with a little movement? Ours is within 3/16th of touching - but we're afraid to tighten anymore.
Is this safe? When you flush there is a slight wobble to the tank and I wonder if this constant movement will eventually cause a leak...?
07-03-2005, 02:24 PM
Hi there....I just finished installing 3 Totos in my house and even broke a tank doing it. Here's is what I've found.....Toto doesn't give you all the parts you need. You need to buy one of those "tank repair kits" that have rubber washers that you install IN the tank and UNDER the tank. In other words the tank is "sandwiched" between two rubber washers and a nut right under the tank. Now, your bolts are tightened and you put the whole unit through the bowl and I once again use a rubber washer, then the metal washer and then a WING NUT to tighten the bowl to the tank. Make sure you use pipe joint compound on the rubber washers and the tank-to-bowl gasket. Then, you shouldn't have any leaks and yes you will probably end up with a little movement of the tank resting on the bowl. I've decided it's just a defect in the china. If the "rock" of the tank is a little much, I'd put a bead of silicone around the tank and let that be a cushioning to the bowl which will also give it some strength!! Good luck!!
07-03-2005, 06:47 PM
I am going to let some other folks comment on this last suggestion, because I don't have any Toto experience. I suspect they will not agree.
07-03-2005, 06:56 PM
The Toto Drake comes "with" all the parts.
Directions are below.
Jamie's toilet instructions (http://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743&highlight=cst744s)
Installing a toilet is not that hard.
If you follow the instructions you will do fine.
We install hundreds of Toto toilets every year using Jamie's instructions above.
We have never broken a tank. I don't know why anyone would.
No pipe joint compond or tape is used.
I have used the extra rubber washer / stainless washer / nut combo on the outside of the tank on our old toilet to pretty much solve a leaky old A/S toilet. Cheap solution and it works real well.
That toilet will be going away in a week or so when the Toto Drake is getting put in.
07-05-2005, 09:50 AM
I was hoping that Terry would provide some more humor regarding toilet tank movement.
I have to say I've never heard of using pipe joint compound on the tank bolts or the tank/bowl gasket and certainly never using caulk anywhere on a toilet except between the pedestal and the floor. I don't think I'd recommend that.
Just follow Jamie's instructions, if the tank moves a little so what. It's better than a broken one. You don't need to buy any repair kits or anything. Toto supplies everything you need except a wax ring.
Although I still believe that Toto has supplied a gasket that is too thick. Especially, since another post'er called Toto and the tank and bowl are supposed to touch.
But I'll take a tiny gap and movement over cracked porcelain.
Why does the tank wobble/move?
Who knows? the question still remains how many pancakes does it take to shingle a dog house? Three because ice cream doesn't bounce.
07-06-2005, 12:00 AM
Is anyone having problems getting the tank gasket to sit flush with the tank as described in Jamie's Instructions? I can't get my gasket to sit flush because the shoulder inside the gasket sits on top of the nut that holds the center pipe thingy (sorry, I don't know the technical name).
I'm getting a slow leak from the tank-bowl joint and am beginning to suspect the tank/bowl gasket. I'm wondering if there may have been a recent design change. My Drake was made in China. Terry had something up saying that they were made in Georgia.
07-06-2005, 10:05 AM
The one piece toilets like the Ultramax are made in Georgia,
The two piece toilets may be made in Georgia, Japan, China, Vietnam and other places.
The rubber seal may need to be pulled onto the flush valve and nut.
But there is only so far you can pull it.
If there is a slow leak, I would pull the tanks bolts out and sand the inside of the tank where the bolts drop through.
07-06-2005, 10:07 AM
I think our tank was made in Vietnam if I remember correctly, I'm going from memory on what was on the boxes and could have that mixed up.
Our 'sponge' gasket seated almost completely flush with the tank and there is no leakage at all. Jamie's instructions are quite clear on that - I had read them through before we attempted installing it.
As I mentioned..it's only, at most, 3/16th of inch that doesn't touch (between tank and bowl) and now, when I flush I don't just 'push' on the handle, I kinda twist the handle so I don't make the tank wobble now :)
Who'd have thought so much discussion would go into a toilet...but I just wanna add ..this toto drake is great..so little water and so much 'potential'.....
07-27-2005, 04:45 PM
Finally finished the bathroom and thought I'd post the email response to my query from a toto rep:
The Drake bowl has three points of contact for the tank. The tank needs to be tightened so that it touches those three points of contact. If you tighten the mounting nuts a small amount at a time, you will not crack the tank.
Since I own a Drake toilet, I can speak from experience. The tank should not rock at all.
07-27-2005, 08:06 PM
I've said this before when this topic has come up and I guess I'll say it again. Of all the Totos I've installed (which are more than I can count even if I remove my shoes), I've never had this problem. Every Toto tank I've installed will tighten down to touch the bowl and there will be no tank wobble. Go ahead and tighten the tank down to get rid of that 3/16" gap. Just be sure to tighten the bolts evenly and you will be fine.