Carlyle loosens over time

Furd

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I have a Toto Carlyle that I installed about eight years ago. Since that time I have had to retighten the hold-down bolts several times and now it is loose again.

I assume that the wax seal is okay since this is style uses the unifit adapter but I don't remember exactly how the hold-down bolts are fitted to the adapter. I know that I had to drill the tile floor and install plastic anchors to hold the unifit to the floor.

How many times can a toilet be removed from the unifit before having to worry about the rubber coupler and does anyone know why the hold-down bolts don't stay tight?

abak_carlyle.jpg

TOTO MS874114SG Carlyle
 
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Does the toilet rock at all, even the slightest bit? If it does, that's why it'c coming loose. Get yourself a couple of SS lock washers or use some anti-vibration nuts (with a nylon insert)...then it won't come loose.
 
Thanks for the reply, Jadnashua, but the toilet doesn't rock. It sets firmly on the floor, even if the bolts are not tight. In fact, the only way I know the nuts are loose is if I bump the bowl and it moves. I don't know if it is the nuts working loose or if something is letting the bolts loose from the unifit. I thought perhaps that the bolt heads might be pulling through the unifit. I hesitate using common spring lock washers but perhaps a jam nut would be advisable to be sure the nut is not simply working loose.

I have never caulked the base of the toilet so perhaps that is part of the problem. I'd like to pull the toilet off the unifit to check the bolts and the screws holding the unifit to the floor but I am unsure of whether or not the zip tie on the rubber connector to the toilet outlet needs to be replaced after X number of times of the toilet removal and if it does need replacement how I would determine the required tightness of the tie.
 
Furd,
If you have been reading the board for very long, you will know that we caulk "ALL" of our toilet installations.

You can't expect two bolts near the back to prevent movement twenty inches a way. From an engineering prospect, there is too much of a lever affect.

Think of it this way, if you want to lift something heavy, you either bring in some friends to help, our you use the mechanical advantage of a longer lever.

You can stop all of that in it's tracks by using some PolySeamSeal, they have it in the paint department of Lowes just off of Northup Way in Bellevue.

loctite-tub-tile.jpg
 
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Thank you, Terry, that makes perfect sense. I never thought about the caulk being anything more than a sealant to prevent mop water from running under the toilet.

Do you have any answer to my other question, about removing and re-installing the toiler on the unifit adapter several times? Since I hadn't caulked the toilet when first installed mop water did run under the toilet and it is dirty. I'd like to remove the toilet and clean the floor before setting the toilet with caulk.
 
The rubber parts are (I think) neoprene, so you shouldn't have a big problem with removal and replacement. Depending on how old it is, there's usually a tiewrap on it - that could be brittle and break - no big deal - you can replace or not. Some have also mentioned using a little plumber's grease on the connection to the Unifit...it tends to make the seal center better since it can slide a little easier.
 
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