Vanity on exterior wall plumbing question

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

Hey guys,

Trying to do a wall mounted faucet and a wall hanging vanity to look like this

Exterior wall is canterlivered and I already got 4" of rigid foam on the front and buttom of the bays and was planning on doing the same in the wall where the plumbing stuff will go, so that gives me R-24, which is code. The framing is 2x6".

Questions/Comments:

1. Does this work?

2. Do I need blocking which effectively will isolate the pipes from conditioned space below. Is that a good thing? Should blocking be wood, foam, or faced batts?

3. I am planning on using PEX or CPVC just to have that extra measure to allow for expansion. We are on a well and water treatment has seems to be working as I BELIEVE the current copper is 25 yo and looks fine according to the plumber who capped it.

4. IF this works I see room for supply lines as I will have 1.5" before drywall, but do I have room for the drain pipes in the wall?
Thanks

Redwood · Feb 9, 2009

I see a lot of freezing problems with running lines in that area on a raised ranch. I would consider other layout options to keep the pipes out of that area.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

Don't really have any other options for the layout...

Redwood · Feb 9, 2009

Can you bring the supplies up through the floor near the front of the vanity then run them to the rear?

In DC you probably will be okay I would wait and see if any plumbers post there with advice.

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

Running through the floor is really not a solution on a wall hanging vanity, is it? And what would that solve as they are still going to the exterior wall? Or are you trying to minimize the run in the cantilevered part? If so, I cah get more insulation in there.

Thinking about it some, I actually don't think I can get 4" of foam behind the valves as it looks like its minimum mounting is 1 13/16" PLUS a 2x4 to mount it on.

Any word on blocking vs not blocking. That is a question regardless of where the pipes come up.

I suppose another option is to build out that wall at 3.5' or so height and run all supplies/drain along that wall to the tub. I just really don't like that look.

Redwood · Feb 9, 2009

I'd wait for a reply from your area.
I really don't know the freezing danger you face there.
I do know your weather is a lot milder than here.
You may be okay.

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

We'll do. FWIW, two local guys didn't see a problem with running pipes in there. They didn't see the actual rough in valves/spec sheets and I am just not seeing it all fit in there.

Jadnashua · Feb 9, 2009

You want the pipes right next to the interior wall so they can gather some heat from it, rather than buried (even a little) in the insulation. Keep in mind that insulation does not generate heat, but just slows the movement of it. The worst situation would be if you turned the heat down, left on vacation, and had a bad cold spell. Less heat to migrate means the freeze point would move towards the interior.

Gardner · Feb 9, 2009

Incorporating cutoffs with drains that would be accessible from below would be a good safety measure. For the winter holiday scenario you could close off and drain down those runs. In the event of total disaster, you could close off the runs without losing water in your whole house.

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

jadnashua said:
You want the pipes right next to the interior wall so they can gather some heat from it, rather than buried (even a little) in the insulation. Keep in mind that insulation does not generate heat, but just slows the movement of it. The worst situation would be if you turned the heat down, left on vacation, and had a bad cold spell. Less heat to migrate means the freeze point would move towards the interior.

Thats the idea, which is why I am thinking no blocking in the bays with pipes. And I know not to insulate the pipes themselves.

gardner said:
Incorporating cutoffs with drains that would be accessible from below would be a good safety measure. For the winter holiday scenario you could close off and drain down those runs. In the event of total disaster, you could close off the runs without losing water in your whole house.

Whats a cutoff with drain? I do have two new shutoffs on the main supply lines now, thanks to the plumber.

SewerRatz · Feb 9, 2009

This part is from the Illinois plumbing code. They frown on putting plumbing on an outside wall but you can do it if you follow what is said here:

No distribution pipe or pipes shall be installed or permitted outside of a building or in an exterior wall unless provisions are made to protect such pipe from freezing, including but not limited to wrap-on insulation or heat tape tracer line or wire.

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

And yet I hear lots of folks advise against wrapping pipes.

SewerRatz · Feb 9, 2009

If you use heat tape then wrap the pipes to retain the ehat from the heat tape is how I think they meant it in the code book.

Gardner · Feb 9, 2009

BimmerRacer said:
Whats a cutoff with drain?

A valve with a small cap on the side. You can close the main valve to isolate the run, then open the little cap to allow the water to drain out. They are commonly used as shut offs for outside taps.

Gardner · Feb 9, 2009

SewerRatz said:
If you use heat tape then wrap the pipes to retain the ehat from the heat tape is how I think they meant it in the code book.

They would let you put heat tape inside a wall? I can't picture that at all.

SewerRatz · Feb 9, 2009

gardner said:
A valve with a small cap on the side. You can close the main valve to isolate the run, then open the little cap to allow the water to drain out. They are commonly used as shut offs for outside taps.

Ah we call them valves stop and waste valves.

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

gardner said:
A valve with a small cap on the side. You can close the main valve to isolate the run, then open the little cap to allow the water to drain out. They are commonly used as shut offs for outside taps.

Oh, yeah, that is what I have. Thanks for the explanation

BimmerRacer · Feb 9, 2009

Playing with adding 2x4" to that wall, just dont like the look very much.

hj · Feb 10, 2009

wall

Run the false wall all the way to the ceiling and box in the windows.

BimmerRacer · Feb 10, 2009

Windows are on a different wall, so that's not an issue. The things above the vanity are mirrors

BUT, there are skylights above so I am not sure how that would look.

Vanity on exterior wall plumbing question

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