1 1/2 copper drain issues

Ok ..another newbie here...this is what I had happen, tried to loosen the nut and it crumbled!


I managed to get it out


It seems to be 1 1/2 " Copper, I wasn't sure what it was until i pulled it out (carefully) and found out it was soldered. what is left in the wall is a 1 1/2 " copper 90 deg. fitting

Went to home depot and the only thing they had close was this


but of course Home Depot doesn't carry 1 1/2 " here ! just the fittings

Now all I need is some 1 1/2 " copper to finish it off hopefully. I would like to get something like what was soldered in there before(all one piece about 4" long), then i wouldn't have to get the piece of 1 1/2" copper pipe. I looked online but couldn't come up with anything (except this site several times) What would you call the piece i am looking for (the piece out of the wall that the p trap would connect into)

would this be the best way to fix this?

thanks

sorry this is what I had taken out from the 90 deg. angle (what is left of it)

And the pipe running to the left of the elbow inside the wall is going to be any better?

Redwood said:

And the pipe running to the left of the elbow inside the wall is going to be any better?

Click to expand...

well that's helpfull

I would make the hole a little bigger and check it.
It might be okay.

What would be the best way to check it without screwing it up? I don't mind cutting into the wall more to see, but pulling the vanity out, the toilet and everything along that wall isn't an option (yet). From what i can see it looks ok. So did the other until I got a 1 1/2 foot monkey wrench on it

Just reach in and push on the bottom of the pipe with your thumb. If it is soft on the bottom it's shot.

pipe

You need a short piece of 1 1/2" copper tubing. Many scrap/junk yards will have what you need.

no one makes what i need any more? Just the one piece in copper.

non professional opinion and conjecture

All you need now is a piece of 1-1/2 copper tubing. You will definitely be able to get that.

You will have to open up your wall more to use a torch on that safely. You will need to fit a heat shield (wet towel fronted by unrolled tin-can maybe) in behind. When you open up the drywall you can figure out if the horizontal run is sound.

I had very nearly the same problem in a powder room recently. My solution was to cut off the copper on the sound horizontal run, then use a banded rubber Fernco type coupling to transition to ABS, then used ABS parts to make the 90 and the trap adapter. I was in a situation where I could not put a torch on the work without a major fire hazard.

Great advice Gardner!

Not having the red trucks arrive at your project is a good thing!

all done. i found what i needed with copper but was scared i would burn the house down so i went with the rubber coupling

Okay but not great...
I would have used a pvc street 90 elbow into a Fernco Proflex sheiled coupling for connecting copper to plastic.
It has one side where the rubber is extra thick to compensater for thinner wall thickness of the copper.

Those all rubber Fernco's are not legal as you have used it....