View Full Version : how to move shower drain about 1 inch.
01-27-2009, 07:36 AM
Hi, I'm hoping someone can give me a little advice on an easy one. I hired a plumber to come in and break up the concrete in my basement floor and install a shower drain. After building my wall, I've discussed the drain is about 1 inch off.
I can wiggle the drain pipe a little, but don't think I can move it enough to hook up to my shower. Also, I don't want to force it either.
I am looking at two options:
#1 - try to move the surrounding gravel from the trap and phsically move the trap and the drain over about 1 inch. I don't know if this is possible or not given my tight working area. I'm far along in the remodel, and don't really want to break up the newly poured concrete again.
#2 - if you look at the drain pipe closely, you can see a collar that I think connects to the trap. Is it possible to use some sort of flexible collar to allow the pipe to move more freely to hook it up? Ideas? thanks!
01-27-2009, 08:00 AM
If the trap is down far enough, you may have room to put in an offset using two sixteenth bends. Otherwise, it may need some more concrete chopping. I would not use any flexies there.
Is that greenboard on the walls? I hope you are gluing up fibreglass panels, and not ceramic tile on top of that.
01-27-2009, 08:28 AM
yes, that's green board and we are gluing the fiberglass panels.
Roughly how much space would I need to fit two sixteenths in there? Thanks!
Again, thanks for the info on the flexy...I've never used one and know they are available but didn't know if they were recommended for this type of application.
01-27-2009, 09:13 AM
The green board should not be behind the glass base. The base should be screwed to the studs and the board brought over the flange. That will probably center that drain.
01-27-2009, 09:45 AM
thanks for the reply. You make a good point. I will need to re-view the instructions for this particular shower. I know that the instructions that i have apply to two different versions of this same shower. I am 95% certain that the version that I have instructs me to not cut out the drywall at the base. There is another version of this shower that requires the base to butt up directly to the studs. I will double check to be sure, because that would certainly be the easiest option, rather than messing around with the drain.
FYI- you can't tell in this picture, but the corners of my base are flush against the wall. This particular base has a small gap between the wall and the drywall. I think this is where the shower walls slide in. That's another reason why I think that the drywall should NOT be removed. If the drywall was moved and the base butted directly to the studs, there would be no gap for my walls to slide in. Make sense?
01-27-2009, 10:16 AM
Most bases we install are against the stud wall and so are the FG panels that install over the base flange for a water tite seal. Heres a rough drawing
this way the finish product will look built in like this:
01-27-2009, 11:01 AM
Wow! Thanks for the response...the diagram is nice....
My problem may be resolving itself....somewhat. I was searching the internet for the directions for my shower (I'm at work and could pick them up) and came across the store that I bought the unit from. I bought it last July on sale and am just now getting around to an install. Anyway, the store publishes reviews and 90% of them warned against using the shower unit I had (it's round). I may have to shift gears if I can convince my wife that return this one.
At this point, given that the drain was installed for this shower, I may have to do a custom tile shower. I am sure I can find lots of reviews on how to do this....
01-27-2009, 04:44 PM
If you're gluing panels on the wall, you don't want the greenboard lapping over the lip I don't think. I do wonder how you'll get the panel to not bow out over the lip of the pan, though, but you said there was a slot.
It's hard to really tell without a reference, but what size is that drain pipe? It looks small, like 1.5". If it isn't 2", you may have trouble getting the inspector to pass it or attach the drain.
02-27-2009, 01:55 PM
I am not a plumber but have been doing my own work and understand the trials and trivulations.,, So.. I saw an offset shower drain for sale at lowes.. Looks like about 1 inch.. May work.. Good luck
That base was designed to fit against the studs and the wall material brought down inside it. That is why the base has flange all around it. Once you cut the green board off and put the base where it belongs the drain should fit. If you read that the wall material should NOT be inside the base, I have to assume you are reading, or interpreting, it incorrectly. We ALWAYS measure the drain opening from the rough wall, NOT from the inside of the wall material, AND the base is ALWAYS installed prior to the contractor installing the wall board. Do it your way, and you will have a bad, and possibly leaking shower stall, because you will have subverted the built in leak protection.
03-16-2009, 07:35 AM
Thanks everyone for the feedback on my shower. I was able to move my drain with the help of the feedback here. A number of people have commented that the base of the shower should be installed directly against the studs, instead of in front of the drywall. IN fact, several have been pretty adamant about this.
I thought I'd post a link to the directions for my particular base. In my installation, I'm trying to install per the directions, to the tee.
Here's a link, take a look at page 8: http://www.asbcorp.com/manual/450025.pdf
Please note that I have "Version A". You'll note, that on my shower, there are two different versions. Version B installs to the studs, my Version A installs over the drywall.
I'm interested in feedback.