Concrete removal, best way?

I'm working on finishing a full bathroom in my walk out basement (basement has following 1 set of French doors, three full windows,( house build in 2007)). The bath room plumbing is roughed in but I need to install a P trap for bath/shower stall. So I need to remove a 1 ft x 1 ft (maybe larger) section of concrete to install P trap what is the best way to do this? I've read some of the other post on removal of concrete I hear Terry say hire someone with a wet concrete saw, others say its too messy etc...

I've ask two professionals for a quote but they would only quote finishing the entire bathroom which I would love to pay for while I just relax. It was around 3500 dollars include tub/shower, all fixtures, toilet, lines, and sewage injector. I'm trying to get quotes on just plumber running all pipes, inspections etc, and I would provide tub/fixtures, injector.

pbw said:

I'm working on finishing a full bathroom in my walk out basement (basement has following 1 set of French doors, three full windows,( house build in 2007)). The bath room plumbing is roughed in but I need to install a P trap for bath/shower stall.

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If the shower is already roughed in, then why do you need to add another P trap for the shower?

pbw said:

I've ask two professionals for a quote but they would only quote finishing the entire bathroom which I would love to pay for while I just relax. It was around 3500 dollars include tub/shower, all fixtures, toilet, lines, and sewage injector. I'm trying to get quotes on just plumber running all pipes, inspections etc, and I would provide tub/fixtures, injector.

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Get a quote from a plumber instead of from a "professional". Why do you need a sewage injector if the plumbing is already roughed in?

concrete

There is no one "best way". The best way is the way that works for you. I would just use a sledge hammer for a 1' x 1' section. Larger ones might need a concrete breaker, and still larger a concrete saw. It all boils down to the amount of time each would take for the particular job.

Ladiesman271 said:

If the shower is already roughed in, then why do you need to add another P trap for the shower?


Get a quote from a plumber instead of from a "professional". Why do you need a sewage injector if the plumbing is already roughed in?

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Sorry wrong term "roughed in", when the basement was poured they ran all the pipes minus the trap due to local code. (this is my understanding) I have the "roughed in" inspection sticker.

On the sewage pump/injector, all the "roughed in" pipes are plumbed to the sewage basin, I don't have a pump yet. I'll post a photo later, thanks for your help, I'm not looking for the cheap way on the actual plumbing would rather do it right once.

rough in

In that case, a good plumber would have installed a trap opening. Since it is not a visible opening in the floor, it may be a thin section of flooring where the trap should go. Tap the floor to see if there is a hollow sounding section.

pbw said:

Sorry wrong term "roughed in", when the basement was poured they ran all the pipes minus the trap due to local code. (this is my understanding) I have the "roughed in" inspection sticker.

On the sewage pump/injector, all the "roughed in" pipes are plumbed to the sewage basin, I don't have a pump yet. I'll post a photo later, thanks for your help, I'm not looking for the cheap way on the actual plumbing would rather do it right once.

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If you live in the Tri-State area I'll take care of it for you with my Brute.

In that case, a good plumber would have installed a trap opening. Since it is not a visible opening in the floor, it may be a thin section of flooring where the trap should go. Tap the floor to see if there is a hollow sounding section. hj

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That's how easy it is sometimes.
I never glue the traps before the pour either.
When the walls are in place, then I can make a good measurement for the p-trap location.
Locate the pipe under the slab, make the measurements, and glue on the trap.

Side note:
For a small job, by all means, just tap out the concrete.

For large jobs, like installing a complete floor system, then a wet saw contractor, there is less mess this way. It's very clean with no dust.
It doesn't fragment the slab, and provides clean edges to pour to.
With a wet saw, we could cut eighty feet of ditch in a 7" slab while people were shopping in just a few hours, no dust or muss.
We would set the sections of concrete in the parking lot with a "FREE" sign, and by the time we went home, the pile was gone.

You can't do that with rubble.

I did about 12 square feet of 4" slab with the following method:

Rotary Drill with masonary bit drilled a circle pattern about 4 inch in diameter (big enough to get your hand in)

Heaviest sledge hammer I could get to open up the circle.

Once you can get your hand in there, remove as much stone as possible from the area immediately around the hole.

When you get an area that has no stone under it, hit it with the sledge hammer. It should break easily. '

Once you are at this point, it gets quite easy. Just remove the stone under an area, then use the sledge.

On smaller openings (Not Terry's shopping center size job) I usually use a Skil saw with a diamond blade and a sprayer to keep the cut wet. I cut it as deep as the saw will go then I smash it with a sledge.