New vanity and drains are way off
- Thread starter tzzoooma
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You want a vertical extension piece from the sink drain so that you can lower the trap to the height consistent with your drain stub-out in the wall.
You want to use a standard p-trap, and have a small downhill slope from the exit of the p-trap to the wall.
You can probably use a 45 deg. bend from your drain stub-out, and angle the exit of the p-trap towards it. You will probably need a horizontal extension to reach the wall.
From a top-view, there is no problem with the anglesto reach your 1' offset. From a side-view, you want to keep the slopes standard so as to avoid an "s-trap" situation.
You want to use a standard p-trap, and have a small downhill slope from the exit of the p-trap to the wall.
You can probably use a 45 deg. bend from your drain stub-out, and angle the exit of the p-trap towards it. You will probably need a horizontal extension to reach the wall.
From a top-view, there is no problem with the anglesto reach your 1' offset. From a side-view, you want to keep the slopes standard so as to avoid an "s-trap" situation.
GabeS
Remodel Contractor
no bends or turns between p trap and sanitary tee in wall. If you do put bends you take the risk of improper venting.
Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
GabeS
Remodel Contractor
If you are installing a new trap and have no experience with this stuff you might want to hire a plumber to do it. Simply because the trap must be installed properly in order to maintain proper water seal to prevent sewer gas and vermin from entering your house.
If you are going to tackle the job yourself, do as much research as possible first. What kind of stub out do you have? cast iron, pvc, abs, copper?
A swivel trap might make it easier for you. You have to basically figure out how to make connection from the sink tailpiece(this piece should be provided with your faucet) to the stub out and in between a properly installed trap. Point A to Point B. Piece of cake.
I don't see why you need to replace trap. The sink height or the fact that it's over a foot should not have required a new trap. Just replacement of the pieces in between the trap and sink.
If you are going to tackle the job yourself, do as much research as possible first. What kind of stub out do you have? cast iron, pvc, abs, copper?
A swivel trap might make it easier for you. You have to basically figure out how to make connection from the sink tailpiece(this piece should be provided with your faucet) to the stub out and in between a properly installed trap. Point A to Point B. Piece of cake.
I don't see why you need to replace trap. The sink height or the fact that it's over a foot should not have required a new trap. Just replacement of the pieces in between the trap and sink.
Ladiesman271
Homeowner
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The pipes under my kitchen sink have a lot of bends after the P trap. All copper fittings installed by the plumber when the house was built in 1958.
Nate R
Member
1958's standards are a little different than today. There's a reason S Traps are no longer allowed.
Redwood
Master Plumber
That is correct. As long as you keep the bend within the horizontal plane at 1/4"/ft pitch not exceeding the developed length allowed under code you are okay.
Redwood
Master Plumber
That is one way of doing it. Although I prefer straight extensions myself.
Ladiesman271
Homeowner
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Yup, the brass P trap still remains lower than the exit point into the drain/vent stack.
GabeS
Remodel Contractor
don't see the need to make bends after the p trap. Install P trap first on sanitary tee with a short length of pipe. Then from there connect from trap to sink strainer and you can't go wrong.
I'm trying to think of a case where you would need bends between the trap and sanitary tee but I can't.
I'm trying to think of a case where you would need bends between the trap and sanitary tee but I can't.
Problem is getting from the p-trap to the tail piece - sideways distance that is 1 foot', and therefore longer than the distance the p-trap can reach when swiveled.
GabeS
Remodel Contractor
I'm talking about from the p-trap to the sanitary tee in the wall.
To get from the trap to the strainer is easy. Just install the strainer first and then the tail piece(make sure it's not too long, cut if necessary) , then all you need is 2 j bends and a swivel trap. You should be able to make the hookup with those pieces. The first j bend points towards the trap. The second brings you down into the trap. Using the correct washers and nuts to bring up the pipe size to the trap.
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Redwood
Master Plumber
Like maybe if the trap doesn't have enough swing to line up...
Or, is your solution flex tube?
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