First post - photos of basement DWV project

XR4ti

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Wisconsin
Hello,

I'm a long time lurker, first time poster.

I thought I'd share a couple photos of a DWV project. After a lot of research, I ended up hiring a plumber to do the work, instead doing the whole thing DIY. (Actually I bartered some computer work / wireless networking, so it ended up being a good arrangement.)

The first photo shows the existing waste line, where a full bath was to be roughed in.

The next photo is how we installed it. The tub goes at the top of the photo, and the vertical pipe got built in to the rough wall as the lav drain & wet vent. Toilet in the obvious spot...

Can anyone identify the type of water supply line I have? We ended up tee-ing into the copper with PEX. He mentioned that he didn't have the right tools to terminate to the tubing. (His boss had one at the shop, but it was an hour away) He commented on the good workmanship of the water meter / regulator connections, and how it's branched through the joists. (I can post better pictures later..)
 

Attachments

  • CIMG0362.JPG
    CIMG0362.JPG
    48.4 KB · Views: 845
  • CIMG1003.JPG
    CIMG1003.JPG
    71.5 KB · Views: 1,258
  • CIMG1005.JPG
    CIMG1005.JPG
    63.2 KB · Views: 820
  • basement_205_20water_20main.JPG
    basement_205_20water_20main.JPG
    26.9 KB · Views: 824
dwv

I can think of at least 3 ways to connect the toilet without using a bunch of elbows. A strict inspector would have had a problem with not having a cleanout after he used two elbows.
 
A strict inspector would have had a problem with not having a cleanout after he used two elbows.
A lenient inspector would have no problems not passing the job after seeing 1 horizontal elbow underground in my neighbourhood.
 
elbows

Most codes only allow 135 degrees of turns before requiring a cleanout. And if that toilet opening is the only way to snake the line it will be more difficult to make a 270 degree turn in that short a distance. I would have done it the right way and just used one 90 before the connection to the drain line.
 
Just curious. Why did you make all the bends from the toilet to the main pipe. Why didn't you just go straight in instead of going around in the circle. Because the more bends you have the more problematic it can be.

You probably should of posted your questions before pouring the cement. Now it makes it more of a decision to change something. :eek:

Did you use purple primer?
 
Last edited:
I wonder if it was an apprentice plumber, or if there was a permit and an inspection. Personally I would of opened up more of the floor to move the Wye further down the line so the piping for the water closet wouldn't have any extra turns.

I also see a unshielded fernco just before the elbow that brings up the stack. I would of cut out part of the stack and installed a clean out the stack and all glued fittings. No fernco needed.
 
An honest to god, licensed plumber did that? What a hack job. All of that could have been done with 1/2 the fittings and a whole lot neater to boot. Can't believe that passed inspection and was covered up.
 
An honest to god, licensed plumber did that? What a hack job.

Reminds me of a joke

Question - "What do you call a med student that got a D average in med school?"

Answer - "Doctor"


There's licensed - "talented" and licensed "untalented" in all walks of life.
 
I like this one:

and BTW: come on no Licensed Plumber would seriously use that many bends on the WC,......hehe ...

It almost looks like someone was playing "Lets use all these Fittings"

BTW - Whats that like a 22" rough on the WC as well, kind look far from any wall to me

attachment.php
 
How 'bout venting? I don't see any vents. He could still vent the vanity drain. But doesn't he need to come up at a 45 degree angle or better for the tub and WC and within 5 feet of the trap?
 
Thanks for the input. I'll be using another plumber from now on. The one who did the work is a Journeyman Plumber, I just checked the database.

The rough was inspected before it was covered up. (As well as the venting arrangement after the plumbing rough wall was constructed.) We don't have a city building inspector anymore, they contract it out to a third party company.

The plumbing wall runs top to bottom in the photo (no pics of it at the moment), but that put the toilet at a 12" rough.

I believe purple primer was used - but it's not very evident in the pics.

It's not visible in the pic, but there is a cleanout in the verticle section of the 3" pipe, just above the PVC coupler. There was also one installed in the rough wall on the lav drain.
 

Attachments

  • cimg1003-2.jpg
    cimg1003-2.jpg
    44.1 KB · Views: 582
Last edited:
If that pic was taken after all the fittings were glued, then purple primer definitely was not used because the primer drips considerably. It cannot be missed if it was used.

Unless that pic is of a dry run before stuff was glued. Then everything was taken apart and glued back together with primer.

The primer helps to clean the joints and softens up the fittings and pipe a bit for a better bond when you apply the glue.

I still don't see how you are going to vent the tub and toilet.
 
The lav drain is vented from above (not pictured) and it serves as a wet vent for the tub and the toilet. At least that's what I've been told. I haven't had any problems with clogs, or traps getting pulled dry so far. It's been an eye opening experience, that's for sure!
 
I believe each fixture needs to be vented seperately. You used 2" pipe so that allows more air flow in the pipe, it would be more difficult to create negative pressure.

Any pro opinions out there on the venting situation?
 
The lav drain is vented from above (not pictured) and it serves as a wet vent for the tub and the toilet.

Wet vented.

Some of the comments from other plumbers involve the extra fittings that were used.
They weren't saying it wouldn't work.
 
Back
Top