I have a sewage ejector pit that continues to have float switch problems. The original pump had an integral float switch that failed in about a 2 years months causing us to replace the pump. The next one came with a tethered float switch that failed in 18 months. We replaced the float switch with a diaphram switch that failed in a year. The replacement only lasted 8 months.
Our sump is used as a flood control system using a backflow valve to prevent city sewage from backing up into the house during a flood. All waste water is handled by this pump. I think the contacts on the switches are being burned. Could this be because of the number of cycles or the load?
Does anyone have an opinion on an electronic switch made by Wayne Pumps ($69 at Ace online)? It has a probe (single wire) that turns the pump on, a timer you set to empty your sump, and a high water probe that lets you know if the pump or switch has failed. The switch is rated by the sellers (pump.biz) for 100,000 cycles at 20 amps although the switch is labled 15 amp on its face.
A previous thread started by a happy installer was posted in January 2007. I would like to hear a follow up from that guy to see if it is still working.
Our sump is used as a flood control system using a backflow valve to prevent city sewage from backing up into the house during a flood. All waste water is handled by this pump. I think the contacts on the switches are being burned. Could this be because of the number of cycles or the load?
Does anyone have an opinion on an electronic switch made by Wayne Pumps ($69 at Ace online)? It has a probe (single wire) that turns the pump on, a timer you set to empty your sump, and a high water probe that lets you know if the pump or switch has failed. The switch is rated by the sellers (pump.biz) for 100,000 cycles at 20 amps although the switch is labled 15 amp on its face.
A previous thread started by a happy installer was posted in January 2007. I would like to hear a follow up from that guy to see if it is still working.