View Full Version : Relocating drain! Look good?

11-05-2008, 08:46 PM
I am installing a whirlpool with a different drain location than my previous corner tub in my manufactured home. The drain will only be about 36" away from original. Will this work. I have attached a drawing of my plan. If so when I cut into the 2" ABS will the pipe move enough laterally to slip the T in? Any transition needed from ABS to PVC. Someone had mentioned they thought you had to use a special glue?

11-06-2008, 06:53 AM
Will it work? Yes, if done correctly. Is it a correct connection? NO!

11-06-2008, 06:55 AM
It doesn't look like you have enough depth. You cannot use a Tee on it's back to connect a waste line like that.

11-06-2008, 12:36 PM
Yes I don't have enough depth. Just got back from Lowes and got alot of my materials and unless it comes above my subfloor it won't fit underneath. Anything wrong with that? Why can't I use the Tee? If that isn't correct could you please tell me what is the correct way? Also: Can you not use an S trap for a tub? Tell me what I need to do and I will follow your orders!!:D

11-06-2008, 05:30 PM
I can rotate the T fitting and that should allow the room. I don't understand why it is "the wrong connection". Tell me the right way fellas. I am here to learn. I need to get my plumbing figured out so HELP a fella out.

11-06-2008, 08:37 PM
A tee can only be used to connect a horizontal branch or trap arm to a VERTICAL waste pipe. Has to do with the sweep and clogging of the inlet. You need to use a wye and a 45.

11-06-2008, 08:50 PM
or, a combo which would be a one piece version of a wye and 45...

11-07-2008, 05:34 AM
1, Your vent is horizontal
2. To make the horizontal vent even somewhat acceptable it would have to be a wet vent for something else.
3. As drawn you have an "S" trap which is not permitted for ANY fixture.
4. However, depending on the plane you are drawing you could be showing a "P" trap, in which case the only concern is the type of fitting you are using to connect to the drain line.

The above concerns are why it is not legal, permitted, or acceptable. But it will work, assuming you abide by #4 above, at least for a little while.

11-07-2008, 03:01 PM
It is a P trap in the drawing. S traps are not permitted? I have S traps all throughout my home. Isn't there a code that the drain has to be within like 3' of the vent? In which case it would be. Could you show me the correct connection and routing via a pic of some sort? I just want to do it right. I'm sure some would've cobbled it by now but I want to do it 1 time.

11-07-2008, 03:11 PM
With the above mentioned connections, would they fit under the floor? Or would I have to rotate them to the side for them to fit?

11-07-2008, 04:08 PM
So I would just use a reducer to go from my 1 1/2" P trap and go straight into the exhisting 2" drainline. Now for the vent. After I cut the drain line would I use the back half of the 2" drain line or just go from the vent going up the wall and get rid of the old T for the old trap and run new 1 1/2" pipe for the vent? Then would I use a Wye and tie into the drainline? Approximately where would I Wye into the drainline after the trap? I really appreciate the help. Picture is worth a thousand words. All of this would then be the "professional" way to go?

11-07-2008, 04:32 PM
How's this look?

11-07-2008, 08:32 PM
By code you should not run it horizontally until it is above, (actually 6" above), the rim of the tub. How we would do it depends entirely on the existing construction of the house, something we cannot see without being there and not shown in the drawing. And might not be able to be shown so we can see what we need to.

11-08-2008, 02:49 PM
I can't go above the rim of the tub first. I would be in the middle of the bathroom floor. This is how I am going to do it. What do you think?


11-09-2008, 01:28 PM
That is how someone said they would do it with the layout I have. That is my plan then. Seems like that would be the only way to go.

11-19-2008, 10:20 PM
O.K. I still haven't gotten this plumbing job completed. I keep getting different stories on what is allowed. On the current setup I was gonna use wye's and was told no to use T's. Cut the wye,t combo out and installed a T and then someone said it had to be a Wye. This is what I have dry fit. I am gonna have the P trap drop down lower where it comes out of the trap and does a street 90 directly into the drain line. The vent will then come out of the top of the T and go to the vent stack at the wall. The current waste/overflow isn't the correct setup. It will be changed. Lord help me!!!:(

11-20-2008, 05:35 AM
The way you have it, it IS an "S" trap, but if you drop it down and go into the end of the tee it will be proper. It appears you have shot yourself in the foot with the water lines, because they appear to be EXACTLY where the trap will have to be when it is in the correct location. Now it seems you will have to make a circutious drain line to work around them.

11-20-2008, 12:48 PM
I didn't shoot myself lol, the lines were there, I didn't put them there lol. No it should be close but it will be just perfect amount of room to come down some. So your giving me approval to run my vent and glue it together? LOL. Don't see any problems?

11-20-2008, 01:45 PM
You can't mix ABS and PBC,
You can't use a santee on the horizontal
The vent needs to be higher than the outlet for the trap arm,
The water lines are in the way and need to be moved for the trap

What was your question again?

11-20-2008, 02:15 PM
LOL, Am I being punked or what? Will this end? Why does one master plumber tell me something than another tells me something oppositte? This is getting crazy. :eek:

If not use the san T should I use the Wye's then? Why am I getting multiple stories?

The vent will be higher than the outlet of trap arm when I lower the trap.

Water lines aren't in the way. If they do come close, tub can be shifted a little bit over away some. (they are below plumbing, pic don't really show it, bad angle I guess)

AGAIN! Why am I getting told YES, NO, YES, NO? This is frustrating. Hard to learn when you get all this different info.

11-20-2008, 04:13 PM
So you are planning on having the trap hook up to the horizontal run of the sanitee and the vent is going straight up out of the sanitee?

11-21-2008, 05:39 PM
Out of the trap outlet and a 90 into the horizontal run of the T. And street 90 out of the top of the T and then run to the vent stack at the wall. And for the abs to pvc I guess I could put a piec of pipe on each side of the T and use no hub connectors? Noone seems to like the transition cement. I just don't know why I keep getting mixed info? I don't know that's why i'm here to ask you guys. Your the guru's!:D

11-22-2008, 08:29 AM
And the drain fittings being used aren't supposed to be concealed. Maybe the best bet is to have an inspector take a look and if he OK's it call it good.

11-22-2008, 05:18 PM
NO plumber would tell you TO use the tee, and NO plumber would tell you NOT TO use a "Y". The "Y" with a street 1/8 bend turned horizontally while not ideal will give you an operating vent. Is that ABS in the end of the tee, or just a dark open space? IF ABS, then no, you should not mix materials.

11-22-2008, 09:49 PM
Yes sir that is ABS. I had bought the transition cement but have heard so many people say not to use it. I have no hub couplers that I will use then. I was told to use T's. That is why I was getting so confused. May I ask why the sanitary T isn't allowed. It has the curve in it, seems like it would be pretty much same as the wye? Not enough slope/curve I presume?

11-23-2008, 06:59 AM
It has a curve, but it is so slight that the tee is not really a directional fitting. In a vertical pipe gravity makes it directional and the slight curve is an asset in many applications. This is not true in a horizontal line, however. There is no similarity between a sanitary tee and a "Y" or combination Y-1/8 bend, and in many cases they are not interchangeable.

11-23-2008, 07:52 AM
Transition Cement can only be used if allowed by code in your local area.

A Sani-Tee cannot pe used on its back like that, use a wye and street 45 or, a combo fitting.

The trap you have cannot be used in a concealed location.

11-23-2008, 11:03 AM
What is wrong with the trap? Now that I think, is it because it has a union and isn't solvent welded? So I would have to get one and glue it so there is no swivel? Is it considered concealed even if there will be a small square hole in the subfloor where you will tighten everything?

11-23-2008, 12:58 PM
What is wrong with the trap? Now that I think, is it because it has a union and isn't solvent welded? So I would have to get one and glue it so there is no swivel? Is it considered concealed even if there will be a small square hole in the subfloor where you will tighten everything?

Yup, No union.

11-23-2008, 04:54 PM
LOL, see learn something new everyday. Just get a regular trap and dry fit everything and mark all the fittings with a black marker? How do you guys usually put the tailpiece in? After everything is glued and you set the whirlpool in the island do you then tilt the whirlpool up to slike and glue the tailpiece in? Again probably a dumb question but........... Learned alot from this forum already. I really appreciate the help and info.

11-23-2008, 06:10 PM
Usually the last thing I glue on is the trap. Get everything lined up perfect then put the trap on.