View Full Version : Acid neutralizer problems
My water is low ph so I have had an acid neutralizer for some time. It has always worker good with no problems. It is just a simple upflow with no backwash. I installed a tankless water heater. When re plumbing everything I discovered the neutralizer was backwards (water going in the outlet and out the inlet) So when I re did it I Hooked it up properly. About two days later I noticed a small leak around the O ring where the head screws in the tank. I tightened it a little and it seemed ok. The next day I went down to find a flooded basement. It blew the O ring out and was pouring water. I tried everything, but finally determined the threads in the tank were striped, even though they looked ok. Ordered a new tank and installed a new O ring. Turned on the water and it blew out the O ring within 5 minuets. Now the head will not tighten up, seemes like it is striped. I guess I need a new head. Anyone know where I can get just the head. Any suggestions ? This is giving me a fit !!!
They are usually plumbed backwards to keep the bed from compacting. When you changed it, it is no longer up flow.
What is your water pressure?
Yes Andy, It is a 10x54 tank. But remember it is a new tank, I transfered the bed and replaced the media. I'm sure the media isn't cemented.
10-25-2008, 11:18 AM
Your 'head' is a dummy In/Out type and for Upflow "filtering" it is plumbed 'backwards' so it works Upflow.
Upflow Service always expands the bed, you plumbed it Downflow and that will increase the pressure loss through the bed increasing the pressure on the threads of the tank and dummy head.
You probably have no gravel in the tank, and plumbing it backwards pushes the mineral up against the slits in the bottom basket which blocks flow through them and then...
If you have this filter before the pump's pressure switch, your water pressure will be much higher than 55 lbs when the mineral reduces the flow rate through the filter and the slits are p[lugged with mineral, and the pump won't shut off until the pressure after the filter rises to the cut out setting on the switch. That may be for many minutes, like the 5 minutes it took for the new tank to blow. It may be the threads on the head and/or the tank. Most tanks have a 125 psi working pressure but that is way too high to operate a water system at. You shouldn't run more than 75 psi.
I have two different types of dummy heads and one allows for a factory bypass valve and is marked Up or Down flow. I also sell tanks.
Your explanation sounds like what is happening, but I put in new gravel when I switched over to the new tank, and the filter is after the pressure switch. In any case I am going to need a new head. I was satisified with the way it worked before, so I guess I just need a new dummy head. How much will a new head cost?
10-26-2008, 01:32 PM
Upflow rarely if ever has gravel because the water flow pushes the mineral aways from the slits in the bottom basket as you use water. So it's strange you are suffering such a pressure loss since you added gravel but, you are compacting the bed without the ability to backwash it, so it has an increasing pressure loss the longer you use it this way.
I haven't sold a head only in some time so I'd have to look it up but... a guess is maybe $50-75 delivered, and that depends on which type and if you wanted the bypass type and the bypass with its 1" MPT plumbing connectors. You'd have to call me.
I am still looking for a head for my acid neutralizer. Any one have any ideas where I might find one? I may have to buy a completely new system, but I hope not.