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View Full Version : GFCI / GFI recommendation



beekerc
10-23-2008, 11:12 AM
I am looking for a GFCI device, 20-amp, with no receptacles (i've heard these called dead-face, blank-face and pass-thru). here's the kicker - i'm looking for it to have two indicator LED's - green for "working, power is flowing" and red for "fault condition". all the brands i've looked at either have either either one LED that indications one condition or the other, or it has no LED at all.

recommendations of any makes and models of GFCI's that meet this criteria would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
BeekerC

Chris75
10-23-2008, 08:38 PM
Your not going to find what your looking for, besides, whats so hard about not seeing a light lit up to tell you its tripped?

beekerc
10-24-2008, 03:18 AM
Your not going to find what your looking for, besides, whats so hard about not seeing a light lit up to tell you its tripped?

Actually i did find one, the HUBBELL GFSTBF20I. it has solid green for normal operation, solid red for tripped/fault and flashing red for end-of-life. now i just need to find a supplier.

why do i need to have an active visual for both conditions? call it a personal quirk. not seeing any lights on the switch could mean that it faulted or it could mean that the breaker tripped. i prefer active indicators to passive ones because the presense of a light means something, the absense of the light could mean there's a problem or it could mean you've got a bad light.

Mikey
10-24-2008, 07:34 AM
If you Google "HUBBELL GFSTBF20I" you'll find several suppliers, including Grainger, which is fairly ubiquitous. Prices range from $40ish-$60ish.

220/221
10-25-2008, 11:57 AM
Plug one of those green LED night lights into a standard GFCI recep.

Green = good, red = tripped.

Crap.... you would have to bypass the photo cell.

I tried.

Chris75
10-25-2008, 12:47 PM
Actually i did find one, the HUBBELL GFSTBF20I. it has solid green for normal operation, solid red for tripped/fault and flashing red for end-of-life. now i just need to find a supplier.

Damn, your good! :D





why do i need to have an active visual for both conditions? call it a personal quirk. not seeing any lights on the switch could mean that it faulted or it could mean that the breaker tripped. i prefer active indicators to passive ones because the presense of a light means something, the absense of the light could mean there's a problem or it could mean you've got a bad light.

you have too much time on your hands. :D

Mikey
10-25-2008, 01:01 PM
Crap.... you would have to bypass the photo cell.

If it's a discrete sensor, just put a piece of black electrical tape (UL Approved, of course) over it.

beekerc
10-27-2008, 12:04 AM
If you Google "HUBBELL GFSTBF20I" you'll find several suppliers, including Grainger, which is fairly ubiquitous. Prices range from $40ish-$60ish.

I googled per Mikey's suggestion and while trying to determine if what I wanted was really worth the cost, I remembered that I have a graybar account that i seldom use, but hopefully is still active. So I called my graybar rep, even though I've never seen Hubbell advertised in any of their flyers or on their shelves, and they were able to special order them for me at quite a bit less than $40/each.

PS. I was actually starting to think how i could make it work with a Pass & Seymour GFI (red for fault) and some sort of low profile night light, especially considering how regular GFI receptacles seem to be cheaper than GFI dead-face units - all i could figure is dead-faces are in less demand, therefore more expensive.