Pump and pressure tank configuration

I have read that there should be nothing installed between the pump and the pressure tank. I am getting ready to start the procedure of replacing my hot water heater and pressure tank and wondered if I should reconfigure the connections - see photo - well water comes in from left.

System:
Pro-Flo PF32 Pressure Tank (bladder) by Amtrol
Myers S2N52 1/2 HP Rustler submersible pump in 4" casing, 33 ft. deep
Pressure switch set at 40/60
Bradford/White 40 gal hot water tank
Plenty of water available, however high mineral content.

Note: The only relief valve is on the hot water tank and there is no drain valve near the pressure tank.

This all started because the bladder in the original Flexcon Well-Lite pressure tank broke after 16 years.

Would a CSV be of any benefit in a system such as this?

Any advice would be appreciated.

What I think would help you greatly is to get rid of all the galvanized and use a regular brass tank tee and add a relief drain valves to it. And a pressure gauge if you don't have one now (I can't see the picture while replying).

The T/P valve on teh heater won't open based on your pump's maximum pressure.

Then get a correctly sized softener with a Clack WS-1 for the proper constant SFR (service flow rate) gpm required based on the number of people in the family, the number of bathrooms and the type of fixtures in them. A softener will protect the new water heater from hard water scale build up, which will extend the life of the heater and reduce your cost to heat water.

A CSV would keep a constant 50 PSI in the house instead of seeing the pressure fluctuate between 40 and 60, and would allow you to use an even smaller tank. However, the CSV doesn't help cycling much on such a small pump, unless you are also using it to irrigate.

Gary and Valveman, thanks for taking the time to reply. I will take your suggestions Gary and replace the galvanized pipe with brass and add a drain valve.

Valveman, I read your earlier post: "The only way to empty the water from the tank, is to punch or drill a hole in the side of the tank to let the water out. This can make a big mess in your well house ... ." This really had me worried, because I had no option but to physically lift the pressure tank out of a tight space (which meant I had to drain it) and I could imagine the mess that would be made by drilling a hole in the side of the tank. Well it happened. I got a few gallons of water out and then it stopped. The bladder must have covered the hole. I had to think of something. I used to scuba dive and had a couple of air tanks that still had 3,000 lbs pressure left in them. I was able to add air, a little at a time, through the schrader and eventually forced all but a small amount of water out of the tank. I am sure I am not the first one to think of this, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

If adding air to the schrader valve doesn't force water out the bottom of the tank, adding air to the bottom fitting will certainly force water out of the schrader valve which could have a small plastic tube hooked up to route the water somewhere.

bob...

Sometimes the busted bladder seals over the outlet hole completely. Then you can't get any water out no matter how much air pressure you add. Need to be careful with something that can add more than 100 PSI of air pressure. I'll attach a couple of pictures that show where a pressure tank has exploded. It can be very dangerous.

You might have to turn the tank upside down to get water out of the schrader valve. Otherwise the air would just bubble through the water and only air would come out of the schrader valve.