Basic copper pipe repair sleeve questions

I've removed 3" piece of water pipe from my main hot water line [Hint: do not try to do a "small job" last thing on a Sunday night.], and now need to repair the pipe. Which of these options are better:

1. Two repair couplings on a 3" piece of replacement pipe

2. Use a 12" repair sleeve to bridge the gap.

It seems to me the latter would be stronger. If I do that, should I have a 3" piece of pipe in the middle of the repair anyhow? Do I smear flux on the whole thing and hope solder goes all the way down the sleeve?

Thanks, I don't have experience with these repair sleeves and I can't find threads discussing them.

mox nix.

If you already have the 12" sleeve, don't use the whole 12" . Cut it to about 2" longer than the gap. Clean everything real good inside and out. Make some pencil marks on the pipe so you know when the coupling is in the right spot.

I don't think strength is an issue. I've never used a sleeve, but if you already have one, I see no reason why it wouldn't be a good choice. If you don't already have the sleeve, it might be a bit cheaper to use two regular couplers, but either way you should have an equally good repair. Often the biggest problem in splicing a patch or new fitting into a line is water in the line that is difficult to drain.

If you use the short piece of pipe, at least one of the couplings must be a repair coupling (i.e., one without a stop in the middle) unless you can spread the two ends apart enough to get it in. Once it is soldered in, either method should be plenty strong.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

Since I had the repair sleeve, I tried that. Went on smooth for about 1" then stuck. When I finally got it off, I swore I'd never use a repair sleeve again.

Repair with couplings went easy as pie.