I replaced a leaking retention tank with an emergency purchased diaphram tank. Since install, I keep getting air out of all fixtures, the toilet sounds like it is going to explode. I can hear air rushing into the tank when the pump turns on. From what I remember it sounded the same before the tank started leaking. My guess is that the ret tank had room for air to collect at the top and stay out of the rest of the system. my concern is, where is the air coming from, is it a leak, is it a sign that the 20 year old pump is on its way out or do I just need to put in a retention tank?
air in system
- Thread starter stude551
- Start date
Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
Not clear on what you are referring to as a retention tank?
A non-bladder tank used in an airmaker or bleeder type well system has an air volume control valve to regulate the air charge in the tank. There are bleeder holes in the drop pipe in the well, causing air to be pushed into the tank each time the pump cycles. The tank has an inlet and and outlet pipe, where water passes through the tank, but the air stays trapped at the top.
If you replace this type of tank with a bladder tank, the air coming into the system has no where to go but into your plumbing system.
A non-bladder tank used in an airmaker or bleeder type well system has an air volume control valve to regulate the air charge in the tank. There are bleeder holes in the drop pipe in the well, causing air to be pushed into the tank each time the pump cycles. The tank has an inlet and and outlet pipe, where water passes through the tank, but the air stays trapped at the top.
If you replace this type of tank with a bladder tank, the air coming into the system has no where to go but into your plumbing system.
Last edited:
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
When you switch from a hydro pneumatic tank to a bladder tank, most times just removing the above ground check valve will keep the bleeder closed and eliminate the air problem. After removing the check valve, if pressure bleeds off when no one is using water, the bleeder is stuck open and will need to be pulled up and plugged.
air bleed
Thank you catcher chick. I finally got a hold of the driller who installed the the pump(20 years ago). He does not remember my instalation. But confirmed your suggestion, based on when and where it was set up, it most likely has an air bleed, and suggests lifting the pump and pipe about 20 feet to remove the air bleed. I figure I'll put in a new pump at the same time. I'll let ya know ahat happens.
Thank you catcher chick. I finally got a hold of the driller who installed the the pump(20 years ago). He does not remember my instalation. But confirmed your suggestion, based on when and where it was set up, it most likely has an air bleed, and suggests lifting the pump and pipe about 20 feet to remove the air bleed. I figure I'll put in a new pump at the same time. I'll let ya know ahat happens.
Like I said, you usually don't have to pull the pump up and plug the bleeder, if you just remove the above ground check valve. This check valve takes the pressure off of the bleeder and lets it open. Without the check valve, the bleeder stays under pressure and doesn't open.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That 20 year old pump is probably better built than any new pump on the market.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That 20 year old pump is probably better built than any new pump on the market.
Similar threads
