sparker
New Member
Does anyone know if it's possible to replace a 20/40 with a new Low Pressure LLC 30/50?
New Pressure Switch
- Thread starter sparker
- Start date
Bob NH
In the Trades
It is possible but unnecessary. The numbers on pressure switches are the factory settings and they are adjustable.
Take the top off the 20/40 and tighten the large nut or screw (clockwise) to increase the pressure setting. Take 3 turns and see how much it increases the pressure setting. Then do a bit more and try again.
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
sparker
New Member
Thanks Bob,
My problem is that the pressure in my tank is dropping all the way down to about zero before turning the pump back on. Then it surges to about 80 and levels off to around 60 or so. I'm thinking it's either a clogged nipple or the pressure switch is bad or the tank is shot.
My problem is that the pressure in my tank is dropping all the way down to about zero before turning the pump back on. Then it surges to about 80 and levels off to around 60 or so. I'm thinking it's either a clogged nipple or the pressure switch is bad or the tank is shot.
Bob NH
In the Trades
Symptoms suggest a failed bladder or tank. One mode of failure is rusting out on the air side of the bladder; usually near the water connection.
Check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge. If there is water on the water side of the bladder the air pressure should be same as the water pressure gauge. If it isn't you may have a bad gauge (which one?).
Consider replacing the water pressure gauge if it doesn't go to zero.
Pressure switches are much more reliable than pressure gauges or bladders.
Turn off power to the pump. Run all of the water out of the tank so water pressure is zero. Check the gauge. Does it read zero?
Rock the tank back and forth to verify that it is empty of water. If it has water then the bladder is almost certainly failed. Replace the tank if the bladder has failed.
Check the air pressure in the tank. The pressure should be the precharge pressure, which should be set at 2 psi less than the start pressure of the switch.
Check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge. If there is water on the water side of the bladder the air pressure should be same as the water pressure gauge. If it isn't you may have a bad gauge (which one?).
Consider replacing the water pressure gauge if it doesn't go to zero.
Pressure switches are much more reliable than pressure gauges or bladders.
Turn off power to the pump. Run all of the water out of the tank so water pressure is zero. Check the gauge. Does it read zero?
Rock the tank back and forth to verify that it is empty of water. If it has water then the bladder is almost certainly failed. Replace the tank if the bladder has failed.
Check the air pressure in the tank. The pressure should be the precharge pressure, which should be set at 2 psi less than the start pressure of the switch.
sparker
New Member
I installed the new 30/50 yesterday before seeing your response. However, the pump/tank is now cycling as it should. Checked the air pressure in the tank while the gauge read 40psi and got a reading of about 38psi. No water leaking through the shrader valve. I also failed to mention that I have a sediment issue. Iron bacteria I suspect. And the dimple in the old switch was in bad shape. Will sediment issues affect a switch/shorten it's life?
Thanks for your previous input.
Thanks for your previous input.
Similar threads
