Hose Bib Question

[Marc46]

What do you pro plumbers recommend to remove defective "anti-syphon" valves from a hose bib?

I am referring to the type used in Florida,........they simply screw on, and have a set screw to keep them tight. House is 16 years old.
That is the problem!! The recessed set screws are rotted out, and no way can you get a hex key in them. They leak constantly when you turn the bib on, plus I hate the things, as they spew water everywhere when you turn a hose off.

I have three outside, and removed one years ago by drilling out the set screw.
The remaining 2 of course, can not be reached with a drill, as the set screw is against the house, at the tightest point, on the bottom/inside area.

Replacing the bibs, is a PIA in my situation,..........copper pipe sweat connections, and the flange buried under stucco.

Any ideas?
Thanks, as I have a couple questions posted on the forum today!

http://www.terrylove.com/images/arrowhead_breaker2.jpg

[nhmaster]

They are designed to be installed only once and can not be removed without damaging the threads.

[Marc46]

The first one I drilled the set screw out successfully,.........and attached a quick-connect type fitting.

These as I said, leak everytime I turn the water on.
I was thinking of trying to cut through the brass with a Dremel in a couple of spots, and try to break it off.

Just thought that some of you "plumber" folks may have an idea that is better than mine.

Don't really want to break my wall open so I can sweat a new bib on!
WTH purpose do the things serve unless one is a moron, and leaves a hose laying in stagnant water, and were to lose pressure?

I hate the freakin' things.
Maybe I am alone on this one!:D

[hj]

The setscrews do not have a hex, they were tightened and then the head of the bolt snapped off to secure them. I cut a "V" wedge on either side of the lockscrew and then remove the piece with the bolt. Then the VB unscrews.

[Marc46]

HJ,
That makes sense, as I remember seeing them with a bolt in them.

What gives someone a right to dictate breaking off a bolt head,............nevermind, I know the answer. The building and zoning department. They are "protecting" us all.

Think I could send them a bill? :D

I understand what you are suggesting, but don't know if I will be able to make that cut where the bolt is.
Guess my only other option is a couple of spaced cuts on the face,........trying to not hit the threads, and then spread it enough to remove it.

Needless to say, I will not be putting new ones on, or if I do,.......they will be minus the bolt!:cool:

[nhmaster]

It's just a back flow device, Probably not important. Who cares if half the neighborhood gets sick?

[Marc46]

It's just a back flow device, Probably not important. Who cares if half the neighborhood gets sick?
Just to make you feel better, and "possibly" understand what I am saying,............I am on a private well,........not municipal water.

As I said before,........I turn off my hose bibs, unless I am using them, and roll them up, and disconnect them.They do not lay on the ground.
Explain to me how that is a danger,.........even to myself on a well.
It is certainly not a danger to anyone else sir.

I am not a plumber, I am an HVAC contractor, but you seem to be painting me as a fool.

There always has to be a "special" person, on every board it seems!:D

Edit: Do you consider it to be "moronic" to not like hose bibs that spew water all over when they are turned on, and never stop?
Why would I not want the ability to easily replace them when they go bad as mine have?
BTW,........don't tell me that they don't go bad as a usual occurrence,........most folks I know feel the same as I do about them.
Granted my home is 16 years old, but why should I need to knock holes in my wall to repair a leaky "back-flow" device that has been rendered non-replaceable by the building codes? I have no issue if I am able to replace them easily,............as nothing lasts forever.
It was a simple question, and nothing more.

[nhmaster]

Just to make you feel better, and "possibly" understand what I am saying,............I am on a private well,........not municipal water.

As I said before,........I turn off my hose bibs, unless I am using them, and roll them up, and disconnect them.They do not lay on the ground.
Explain to me how that is a danger,.........even to myself on a well.
It is certainly not a danger to anyone else sir.

I am not a plumber, I am an HVAC contractor, but you seem to be painting me as a fool.

There always has to be a "special" person, on every board it seems!:D

Edit: Do you consider it to be "moronic" to not like hose bibs that spew water all over when they are turned on, and never stop?
Why would I not want the ability to easily replace them when they go bad as mine have?
BTW,........don't tell me that they don't go bad as a usual occurrence,........most folks I know feel the same as I do about them.
Granted my home is 16 years old, but why should I need to knock holes in my wall to repair a leaky "back-flow" device that has been rendered non-replaceable by the building codes? I have no issue if I am able to replace them easily,............as nothing lasts forever.
It was a simple question, and nothing more.

Well, I'm just speachless here. You win. With such an eloquent argument for why you should not have to abide by the codes you sir, should have been a lawyer. Your talent is wasted. Again I bow down to your knowledge and wisdom. You are indeed, only a danger to yourself.

[Marc46]

Let me try again,........without sounding like an attorney.

What is the best suggestion for removing "faulty, and constantly" leaking when on, anti-syphon valves, on an outdoor hose-bib?

I would like to replace them with new "non-leaking" valves, and leave them in the state that they can be replaced when needed without knocking out the walls of my home.

Possibly this will be received better, since I am not defying building codes with this particular question.

[Redwood]

I am on a private well,........not municipal water.

Great! Contaminate the whole damn aquifer!:eek:

[Herk]

The above posters are correct - the integrity of the backflow protection should be maintained. So - the first step in removing the old protection is buying new protection and having it ready to put on when you get rid of the old ones.

Were you to simply replace the hydrants, you'd find that new hydrants have backflow protection built in, and that they (the Woodfords at least) are rebuildable.

Try tightening them if you must, until the set screw appears where you can drill it.

[toolaholic]

Simple , I'm a welder . Metal cutoff blade in a 4 1/2" grinder. Use a light hand ,2 cuts 180 degrees apart. IM NOT A COP !!!!!:D

[Terry]

Most of the time, we just bite the bullet and replace the frost free faucet.
I means getting to the back side of it so you can put a wrench on it.
You find the inside wall that it goes into, and cut a square about 8" x 8".
You can cover that with a plastic access panel, sold at any hardware store.

I like using the Legend Frost Free faucets, but there are many other brands that work well too. If a hose fits the thread, you are home.

Faucets with back flow prevention is a good thing.
The gray matter may have a hard time with the concept, because you haven't gotten sick from your water yet.
You just need to take a trip where they are very casual about their water. Diarrhea makes for a pleasant trip, as long as you don't die from whatever you are catching.
http://www.terrylove.com/images/legend_hosebib.jpg

[hj]

You can cut the screw out even on the underside it just makes it a bit harder. If you do not remove the screw it will damage the threads on the valve no matter how you remove it.

[jimbo]

Let me try again,........without sounding like an attorney.

What is the best suggestion for removing "faulty, and constantly" leaking when on, anti-syphon valves, on an outdoor hose-bib?

I would like to replace them with new "non-leaking" valves, and leave them in the state that they can be replaced when needed without knocking out the walls of my home.

Possibly this will be received better, since I am not defying building codes with this particular question.

The back flow preventer is required by code in most areas. We don't know if it is required by code in your area, but it is a good idea to have one. You say that YOU always take off the hose, never lay it on the ground. But what about your wife, what about your kids, or the illegal alien who "borrows" you water to wash his bicycle? What about the future homeowner who buys your house? The point is, the codes are written to protect everyone. A code or plumbing practice cannot rely on one "dependable" homeowner to be long-term safe.

Now, the devices are designed as tamper-resistant for obvious reasons.

You can try to remove it by drilling out the screw. Another choice is to replace the valve with an anti-siphon bibb, which has a built in, serviceable back flow device.

[nhmaster]

The back flow preventer is required by code in most areas. We don't know if it is required by code in your area, but it is a good idea to have one. You say that YOU always take off the hose, never lay it on the ground. But what about your wife, what about your kids, or the illegal alien who "borrows" you water to wash his bicycle? What about the future homeowner who buys your house? The point is, the codes are written to protect everyone. A code or plumbing practice cannot rely on one "dependable" homeowner to be long-term safe.

Now, the devices are designed as tamper-resistant for obvious reasons.

You can try to remove it by drilling out the screw. Another choice is to replace the valve with an anti-siphon bibb, which has a built in, serviceable back flow device.

Very well put. One of the biggest culprits is the Miracle Grow feeder that gets left on the hose when the backflow situation occurs. The well argument is specious at best. A broken or leaking pitless adaptor or pump fitting or a faulty check valve can and will cause backflow in the well itself which as Redwood said will pollute the aquifir and possibly ruin the well. The "I am responsible and always take the hose off" argument doesn't fly with me either.
Here's why. I've been driving for 30 some odd years, never had a moving violation, never had an accident. So I think that I must be a pretty good driver so I think I should be able to drive faster than everyone else.

[Terry]

Back flows happen when the city turns off the main to work on it.
When that happens, it sucks water from the home, and in your case, your hoses if they are in use.

There have been deaths in the USA when this has happened.
Somebody, somewhere has a hose ending in a bad spot, the city turns off the main, and now it is sucked into the public water supply.

This isn't new information.
It's why you can still drink water from your own home without getting sick. A very novel concept in most parts of the world.

You ever see those insecticides and fertilizers that connect to a garden hose to spread the poison. You can buy them in Home Depot. You know your neighbors are using them.

Can somebody explain how this can be a legal product to sell?

How to Use

Connect: Shake well before using. Connect sprayer to hose. Turn on water. Spray:

Cautions

For outdoor use only. Harmful if swallowed. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid contact with eyes or clothing. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling.

http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?bodyCssClass=scotts+blade+prod uct+general+en&tabs=general&navAction=push&bodyId=product_general&proId=prod180008&itemId=cat50078&id=cat50008

[nhmaster]

watts.com has some very good information and free video on backflow prevention and disasters.

[Marc46]

Guys,.......I understand your concerns, and the reason for the code.
Unfortunately the locations of mine rule out accessing the valve from the inside wall, as one has a marble shower wall opposite it, and the other one has a roman tub sitting on the other side.

That leaves me with the choice of finding a way to get the defective ones off, or knocking a large access in my exterior stucco, and block, to be able to replace the bibs. Can it be done,.........sure, but I hate to have to go through all of that to replace a simple spin on appliance.
Yes, I understand that some folks are "idiots", and I guess I understand why they were made non-removable due to that fact.

Where you guys have me confused though is on the contamination possibility in my situation. My fiancee gets me to haul the hose out there if she needs it for something, and I have no kids,...............also no "illegals" around. I live in a rural area where everyone has 1.5 to 10 acres. I turn off the bib when I am finished, and roll up the hose, and store it in my outbuilding, until the next use.
Now,..........IF that bib is turned off, and the backflow device is after the valve stem, as these things are,...........how can something in my well malfunction, and draw anything into my house plumbing, or the well itself by that device not being installed?
Not being a "wiseacre", I just don't understand how that is possible in my specific situation?

Aren't these things simply to prevent a "vacuum" so to speak from being pulled into the house plumbing if it loses pressure? If the bib is closed, it can't do that,............and even if it was open all it could pull is air with no hose attached. I said before that I am not a plumber, and you are losing me on this part of it.

Anyway, I will try to cut them with a Dremel, or my 4.5" grinder,.............but I WILL replace them. I just WON'T break the bolt heads off! At least not unless I were to sell the house!:)
Thanks again.

[Terry]

just WON'T break the bolt heads off!


That's fair.

http://www.terrylove.com/images/arrowhead_breaker2.jpg

[Marc46]

My novel was posted after some new responses,........so I presume that I am correct in the fact that what I do, is of no danger without them.

I have decided to be a good citizen though, as stated, and replace them.

Last question,........since these things are so important.
How do you test them for proper operation? Or do you simply assume they are working, until a situation like I have happens?

I am used to the "blow-off" when you turn off the bib,.......but I know they aren't supposed to leak constantly when on.

I am simply trying to learn here!
BTW,........I can't believe there are folks that would leave a Miracle Grow feeder, or a pesticide sprayer hooked up to a hose,........drop it on the ground, and leave the bib on for days.

Guess I see the reason for them now. Sometimes I have trouble realizing there are people out there among us that dumb.

[nhmaster]

Not necessaraly dumb. maybe the phone rings and they forget, or there's some emergency they need to attend to. Most accidents are just that, and accident.

Easy way to test. turn off the hose and then lift it up above the vac breaker. water should come out.

[Marc46]

Thanks for the test info.

[jimbo]

Unfortunately the locations of mine rule out accessing the valve from the inside wall
Nothing is impossible....often not easy. Welcome to home ownership!
, as one has a marble shower wall opposite it, and the other one has a roman tub sitting on the other side.

That leaves me with the choice of finding a way to get the defective ones off, or knocking a large access in my exterior stucco,
This would actually be a relatively easy to do and easy to fix method of accessl
and block, to be able to replace the bibs. Can it be done,.........sure, but I hate to have to go through all of that to replace a simple spin on appliance.
Yes, I understand that some folks are "idiots", and I guess I understand why they were made non-removable due to that fact.

Where you guys have me confused though is on the contamination possibility in my situation. My fiancee gets me to haul the hose out there if she needs it for something, and I have no kids,...............also no "illegals" around. I live in a rural area where everyone has 1.5 to 10 acres. I turn off the bib when I am finished, and roll up the hose, and store it in my outbuilding, until the next use.
Now,..........IF that bib is turned off, and the backflow device is after the valve stem, as these things are,...........how can something in my well malfunction, and draw anything into my house plumbing
ANYTHIHNG can malfunction. It is not the problem of drawing something into your house. It is the problem of drawing something nasty through your hose into the municipal, or in your case, the well system.
, or the well itself by that device not being installed?
Not being a "wiseacre", I just don't understand how that is possible in my specific situation?
Odds are at least even, that when this admittedly rare siphon situation happens, the bibb washer, absent system pressure, will lift off the seat enough to leak by. The referenced articles about DEAD PEOPLE should be enough to convince you that this is a problem worth avoiding
Aren't these things simply to prevent a "vacuum" so to speak from being pulled into the house plumbing if it loses pressure? If the bib is closed, it can't do that,

............and even if it was open all it could pull is air with no hose attached. I said before that I am not a plumber, and you are losing me on this part of it.

Anyway, I will try to cut them with a Dremel, or my 4.5" grinder,.............but I WILL replace them. I just WON'T break the bolt heads off! At least not unless I were to sell the house!:)
Thanks again.


see red notes

[nhmaster]

Jimbo buddy, sorry but I think this one's a done deal. Nice response though.;)

[Marc46]

Jimbo buddy, sorry but I think this one's a done deal. Nice response though.;)

Was going to make a much longer response, but it is not worth the typing time.

I asked questions to learn, and will be replacing the backflow devices whether I really need them or not. Believe I said that previously.
I will try the cutting process first,.........and if needed, I will knock out the block.

I am a longstanding member of a firearm forum board,.......so I am used to seeing this behavior towards "newbies", by a select few.

Once again, I thank ALL for their contributions!:)

http://www.terrylove.com/images/arrowhead_breaker.jpg

[toolaholic]

I agree,the wise ass answers wern't needed. You never mentioned doing anything wrong. I'm also guilty of the same! Sorry,:) please Come anytime

[Marc46]

I agree,the wise ass answers wern't needed. You never mentioned doing anything wrong. I'm also guilty of the same! Sorry,:) please Come anytime
You have nothing to apologize for,.........nobody does!:)
I can take it.
Can't run your own business for 17 years if you are sensitive enough to break down over a forum response.

I am actually going to be following your advice with my Makita 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel.

I have about 8,000 posts on the board that I spoke of, as I am an avid "shooter",........just mentioned the fact that the behavior goes across the board on the internet forums.
Thanks again to all, and unless I run into issues,.........I will leave all of you fine folks alone for a bit.

[nhmaster]

Sorry there Marc, you took that the wrong way. I was referring to your post that said you would put the vac breaker on but not break off the screw which seems like a good solution and therefore should end the discussion.

[Marc46]

Sorry there Marc, you took that the wrong way. I was referring to your post that said you would put the vac breaker on but not break off the screw which seems like a good solution and therefore should end the discussion.

Sorry on my end nhmaster,......I now see what you meant.
The same as Terry.

I appreciate even the criticism from you. You made me think about something that I know little about.
Thanks again, and yes,......this is now a closed issue,...........unless I need more help!:)

[Herk]

Here's the situation: you put out a lawn sprinkler and turn it on. You've recently fertilized your lawn. You go to the store. The power goes out. Your foot valve in your well does not hold. Water begins to siphon from the puddle on your lawn through the hose then through the system and then into the well. You have now contaminated not only your well with fertilizer, you have also contaminated the aquifer and put others in danger. That's only one scenario. Just because you cannot imagine what can happen does not mean that nothing can happen.

[Redwood]

Sorry if our replies seemed overly harsh but the threat is very real.
Check out this link to a report on cross connections. Every one of these was a result of someone thinking it was not possible.
http://www.watts.com/pdf/F-sbn.pdf

[kingsotall]

That watts article made for some good reading. The point has been driven home with me.

[jimbo]

.........also no "illegals" around. .


Maybe not now, but trust me on this....you will have...soon. We have a surplus here in Southern California, and some sheriffs are BUSSING THEM OUT OF STATE! Besides, there is now a shortage of bicycle rack parking in front of all the 7-elevens. So a lot of them have decided to move to the country....Oregon, Idaho, etc etc.....

[rjicard]

Mine have the anti-vacuum device and are spurting water everywhere when turned on. These do not have a set screw holding the device to the bib. How do I take them off to replace them?

[Scuba_Dave]

Faucets with back flow prevention is a good thing.
The gray matter may have a hard time with the concept, because you haven't gotten sick from your water yet.
You just need to take a trip where they are very casual about their water. Diarrhea makes for a pleasant trip, as long as you don't die from whatever you are catching.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/../images/legend_hosebib.jpg

Interesting thread, glad it was brought back up
I wanted Frost free outdoor faucets
My plumber installed 2 that look just like the pics Terry posted
So my hoses are protected?

But it seems from the Watts article I should have whole house protection - the Watts Backflow preventer?
Is that the correct name?
I checked & there is one on the water feed to the boiler
What else can back siphon?
When we redo the kitchen the sink will move & a dishwasher installed. I've been keeping a running list of other things I want the plumber to do while he is here

If I had known I would have had him install one when he redid the main valve & redid the piping from 1/2" to 3/4"
I'm a little surprised he didn't mention/or suggest it
Is it required by code?

[Marc46]

Mine have the anti-vacuum device and are spurting water everywhere when turned on. These do not have a set screw holding the device to the bib. How do I take them off to replace them?

You most likely have the same type as I do,.....they simply screw on.
Whether you see it or not, there IS a set screw somewhere on the body.
You probably don't see it as the installer broke it off.
Try what I did, and cut them off with a grinder with a metal cutting blade.

Safety glasses, and a slow hand, and you can break the brass body right in half with a screwdriver.
When you install the new ones just don't break off the set screw, and spray it with some oil from time to time to keep it from rusting.

http://www.terrylove.com/images/arrowhead_breaker2.jpg

[PeteD]

My plumber installed 2 that look just like the pics Terry posted
So my hoses are protected?


I can answer this part - yes those are equipped with vacuum break. The water will drain out from under the protrusion on top.

Pete

[Ladiesman271]

Great! Contaminate the whole damn aquifer!:eek:


I wonder how water gets into the aquifer in the first place!:D

[Ladiesman271]

I can answer this part - yes those are equipped with vacuum break. The water will drain out from under the protrusion on top.

Pete


The water will drain out of the vacuum break? It used to be that the vacuum break prevented water backflow into the water pipe by letting in air during backflow conditions!

[rjicard]

You most likely have the same type as I do,.....they simply screw on.
Whether you see it or not, there IS a set screw somewhere on the body.
You probably don't see it as the installer broke it off.
Try what I did, and cut them off with a grinder with a metal cutting blade.

Safety glasses, and a slow hand, and you can break the brass body right in half with a screwdriver.
When you install the new ones just don't break off the set screw, and spray it with some oil from time to time to keep it from rusting.

Thanks for the feedback, but seriously, I don't think mine have a set screw that was broken off. I sand papered the thing clean as a whistle and saw no place where there could have been any type of set screw. It was smooth all around. I guess I can try cutting it off if no one thinks a couple of pipe wrenches won't work.

[PeteD]

The water will drain out of the vacuum break? It used to be that the vacuum break prevented water backflow into the water pipe by letting in air during backflow conditions!

In my situation, my garden is above the hose bibb, so everytime I shut it off, the hose back drains out of the top. It will work as you describe (let air in, if the hose is lower).

[Ladiesman271]

Thanks for the feedback, but seriously, I don't think mine have a set screw that was broken off. I sand papered the thing clean as a whistle and saw no place where there could have been any type of set screw. It was smooth all around. I guess I can try cutting it off if no one thinks a couple of pipe wrenches won't work.


Some of those valves are screwed on, and some are soldered on the water pipe inside the wall. Same valve, different installation method.

You can not unscrew a valve that is soldered to the water pipe. You have to get inside the wall it the valve is soldered to the pipe.

I have no idea what anyone is talking about as far as a set screw is concerned. When I installed my valve, I screwed the valve on to the pipe fitting, and used two wood screws to attach the bib to the wall.

[rjicard]

Some of those valves are screwed on, and some are soldered on the water pipe inside the wall. Same valve, different installation method.

You can not unscrew a valve that is soldered to the water pipe. You have to get inside the wall it the valve is soldered to the pipe.

I have no idea what anyone is talking about as far as a set screw is concerned. When I installed my valve, I screwed the valve on to the pipe fitting, and used two wood screws to attach the bib to the wall.

I'm talking about thee anti-syphon valve located (screwed on) on the bib where you would normally screw on the female end of a hose, not the bib itself. I know some of those are screwed on and some are soldered on.

[McMike]

there is a brand out there, i think it was arrowhead, at one time their vac breaker screwed onto the hose outlet without a set screw, just really tightened onto the faucet body, it met code at the time i believe because the threads that the vac breaker screwed onto the faucet were specific to the vb and a hose would not screw onto, if the vb finally unscrews and the threads on the faucet are smaller than regular hose threads you will need to source the proper vb, arrowhead typically has a green oval metal handle

[Dunbar Plumbing]

there is a brand out there, i think it was arrowhead, at one time their vac breaker screwed onto the hose outlet without a set screw, just really tightened onto the faucet body, it met code at the time i believe because the threads that the vac breaker screwed onto the faucet were specific to the vb and a hose would not screw onto, if the vb finally unscrews and the threads on the faucet are smaller than regular hose threads you will need to source the proper vb, arrowhead typically has a green oval metal handle


Yes,


ArrowHead Brass (http://www.arrowheadbrass.com/op_champarrow/orderportal/catalog_presentation/by_product/0/454BFP10/0/0/0/0/0)


Fine thread so no one can connect to that faucet unless there's a vaccum breaker on it.


Lots of these valves still in use in my area, even though they are not sold here anymore. A passing phase just like when HD quit selling those B&K Quartermasters that I installed probably 300 over the past 5 years.

[themp]

My whole neighborhood has these devices on all the outdoor bibs. Over time they have failed and most neighbors have removed them. The city I live in required these per code. They also required a backflow value on irrigation systems. But the catch was, they only knew you needed a backflow value if you added a separate irrigation meter. Those neighbors that put in their own irrigation system and tied into their house water supply usually never added a backflow value. So what we have hear is a system that no one can monitor or make sure is safe. This is what Marc46 is basically complaining about, rules that are not enforceable to keep the main water supply safe.

So, what the city does a few years ago is come back in and add a backflow value to all meters in the system. This seems reasonable. They also have stopped requiring that irrigation system backflow values be tested every three years(around 80 dollar charge).

So at this point you can make yourself sick but from a city standpoint you cannot go any further. Well, the city backflow device can fail too, as nothing is absolute.

Tom

[rjicard]

Thanks everyone for your input, I guess I'll get the pipe wrenches out! I'll post the results if I don't flood the house...

[rjicard]

Thanks everyone for your input, I guess I'll get the pipe wrenches out! I'll post the results if I don't flood the house...

Thanks for your response. What I did find was that the anti-syphon device did not have a set screw, I was able to unscrew it and went to Home Depot and bought a replacement which did have a set screw. The anti-syphon device was attached with fine threads to a coupling type device attached to the hose bib. The coupling was also attached w/ fine thread to the hose bib and with loc-tite. As I found out later after I had cut the coupling off, the coupling did not need to come off. A plumber gave me a hose bib with the coupling still on it and I used the vice and a pipe wrench to get it off and then put it on the hose bib I cut the other coupling off from. I did not want to have to replace the hose bib, all the pipeing is behind bricks! I hope all this makes sense. Thanks, Bob

[Jark]

Hi,

First.... I'm a plumbing rube, but I've done some research and pretty well understand the anti-siphon thing (also entertaining reading!).

I live on an island, so any repairs are not easy and costly. Both my anti-siphon hose bibbs are doing that leaking, squirting thing. I went under the house and saw what looks like a copper or brass threaded connector between the water line and shaft (about 8" long?) of the unit; I don't think it's a soldered connection because there are soldered joints just before it, and it looks nothing like them (I didn't think copper had threads, so I'm not sure what kind of a fitting it actually is!). The place closest to me has units that have a chrome (plated brass?) type of shaft. Might these work on whatever I have? Sorry for the stupidity, but I can do a lot of repairs if I know what I'm supposed to do, and assumed someone can understand what I'm saying. Just thought I'd throw this out and get some more info before the trek to the supply center.

Thanks!

[Redwood]

Most are like this and can either thread into a female adapter or they can also be sweated on...

http://www.terrylove.com/images/legend_hosebib.jpg

[Jark]

Most are like this and can either thread into a female adapter or they can also be sweated on...

http://www.terrylove.com/images/legend_hosebib.jpg

Thanks for the reply... so it's a brass coupler on the copper pipe connected to a plated brass unit?

[Redwood]

I dunno... I can't see it!
If you could post a picture I would be able to...:D

[Jark]

I dunno... I can't see it!
If you could post a picture I would be able to...:D

Sorry... excuse the photo-very cramped and dark space!
I'm assuming the threaded fitting from the copper water line (on the left) and the extension of the bib (on the right) are both brass-although my unit is not zinc plated. That's what I'm trying to verify. So... all of these units must be brass.... would the threads be the same on all of these? :confused:

7840

[Redwood]

Beautiful!

The copper with the flat nut surfaces is the female adapter.
Shut the water off to that line and make sure its off.
You can get wrench on the female adapter to hold it in place while you unthread the hose bibb from it...
You need to get one the same length...
They do come in different lengths...

[Jark]

Beautiful!

The copper with the flat nut surfaces is the female adapter.
Shut the water off to that line and make sure its off.
You can get wrench on the female adapter to hold it in place while you unthread the hose bibb from it...
You need to get one the same length...
They do come in different lengths...

Great! Can the shaft be unthreaded from outside-or could that ruin the threads? Do you use a wrench at the adapter end of the bibb? Use plumbers tape?

Thanks again!!

[Redwood]

It's a good idea to have someone inside with a wrench on the female adapter to keep the stress off the pipes.

You can spin the hose bibb from outside.

Teflon tape wrapping the male threads with teflon dope over it.

[Jark]

It's a good idea to have someone inside with a wrench on the female adapter to keep the stress off the pipes.

You can spin the hose bibb from outside.

Teflon tape wrapping the male threads with teflon dope over it.

Thanks again!