Water Softener Mineral Buildup- PITA

rs899

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I have been using a couple of Autotrol control units on our system for ten years with pretty good results. Our water has a fair amount of iron and calcium in it and the softener does the job, until it doesn't.

That is- I find that I have to disassemble the unit, strip the timer and flapper valve etc off, and dunk the Noryrl part into a container of muriatic acid about every 4-6 months to unclog it and keep the backflush working (won't suck brine anymore).

I can and will do this, but is there a better way? I have been adding Ironout- is there something else I could use that would prevent this problem? Would switching to a Fleck or Klack valve prevent this issue?

Rick
 
Why don't you simply remove the injector and injector screen and clean them, that's what is usually done when the block up. And if needed you can run a small diameter brush through the port from the screen to the injector. That would be like a smoking pipe cleaner brush; or use a piece of string etc..

Autotrol valves are not so good on iron but you don't need a new control valve.

Yes Iron Out or Super Iron Out will keep those parts clean of rust. Those products will also keep the resin from fouling. You'd add it to a gallon or two of water poured into the water in the salt tank and do a manual regeneration once every month or two.

That's Clack, not Klack.
 
Gary-

Ok- Clack.

It's not the injector that is constantly plugging up-that is fine. It's the drain control/drain area. There is a rubber check ball that is supposed to bounce around in that chamber. The whole area cakes up with calcium- you would need a drill to clear it (and you can't). Iron really isn't the issue with the valve. Would the same thing happen with a Fleck or ..er Clack?

Rick
 
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